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Types of Leather

 

Source: Paul D. Johnson’s "Civil War Cartridge Boxes of the Union Infantryman" published by Mowbray 1999.

 

"Buff leather blacked"

The following description explains the process for making white "buff" leather, the process for making "buff leather blacked" was the same except that the leather was dyed black as the last step.

"The process of manufacturing Buff leather is, first, to expose the hides to a weak action of lime in water to remove the hair. Then, on an average of 30 days, to a much stronger action of lime. Then they are grained or shaven to remove excrescences from the flesh side of the hides. Then they are brought under pounding beams and softened. Then they are seared or filled with the best of liver oil, which unites with the gluten formed by the action of the lime. Then the hides are scoured in strong potah water, the potash with the oil forming soap, which frees the leather from the glutinous matter in contained. Then the hides are exposed on frames, for about ten days, to the direct action of the sun by which means they are bleached…"

"Waxed leather" or "Upper leather" took its name from the leather used for military footwear. With the rough or flesh side of the leather facing outward, the outside was then blackened and waxed, thus the other name for this being "waxed leather." The grain side was a russet color.

 

"Bridle leather" or "Grain leather" was finished on the grain or smooth side of the hide rather than the flesh side as was "waxed" ("upper leather").

 

"Russet" leather has a light brown color, and its outer surface is smooth.


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