General Clothing Guidelines

Shirts

Shirts are available in a wide variety of patterns, fabrics and colors.  Please note that the Army issue shirt, which had not really changed since the War of 1812, was made of an off-white colored wool-cotton mixture called domet flannel.  For obvious reasons, soldiers wore a wide assortment of shirts sent from home or purchased from sutlers.  They probably were not, however, in loud or bizarre colors of patterns.  We suggest your first shirt be of an off-white cotton (but not modern calico), natural muslin, or some subdued small checks or striped.  We have sources for authentic period fabrics if you wish to hand-sewn your own or have one made.  Be sure to stick to authentic mid-19^th century patterns, and not Revolutionary War or "Buckskinner" patterns as they are too full fitting.

Buttons:  Shirt buttons should be of tin, glass or mother of pearl.  Bone and especially wood buttons are associated with "slave clothing" and would not be authentic for a Federal Army unit, even for a shirt sent from home.  It should also be noted that modern fabric store gingham check is not authentic as it is too lightweight.

Period References  Vendors

Braces (suspenders)

Narrow straps of cotton or linen with leather tabs for attachment to the waistband of the trousers.  Note: Period suspenders did not use clasps as in modern suspenders and typically did not employ elastic in the straps.

Vendors

Drawers

Proper Civil War issue and private purchase drawers (underwear) are, like the trousers, high-waisted and loose fitting.  Drawers were generally made of canton flannel, a soft cotton material with a fleece nap on one side only.  Draw strings at the ankles keep them from showing outside the trousers and at the waist provide an adjustment for comfort.  There are several vendors selling these in both canton and muslin material.

Vendors

Wool Socks

While gray is the most common color, various colors and different fabrics such as cotton were often purchased by the soldiers or sent from home.

Vendors

Shoes (“Bootees” or “Jeffersons”)

These shoes are often incorrectly called “Brogans.”¹ The standard shoe of the Federal Army from 1851 through the early 1870s.  Black leather, rough side out.  Laces are black, usually leather but not modern yellow "chromed" rawhide.   Early war soles were hand sewn and not pegged.  Later in the war both hand sewn and pegged soles were produced.  Either style is acceptable.

Pictures  Vendors

Spectacles (eye wear)

Wear either period glasses or contacts.

Vendors

Greatcoat (overcoat), Sky Blue, Foot Pattern (optional)

These were among the first items tossed to the side of the road at the start of the spring campaigns by the soldiers eager to save weight on the long marches and therefore is not a required item for most events. This item comes in very handy at cold weather events and can be used in place of a blanket at night.  Made of the same fabric and color as the trousers it has a stiff stand-up collar and a cape that comes down to the elbows.  The sleeves are lined with muslin, the body is half lined with heavy blanket wool.

Pictures  Period References  Vendors

Vest (optional)

This is an optional piece of clothing.  The vest were not an issued item, but one that some soldiers picked up from sutlers who sold “military” style vests.  The vest was hand-sewn and made of a fine dark blue wool, had a standing collar, two to four small pockets, a black or brown polished cotton back, closed with nine small Eagle buttons.  The vest of the period fit rather tightly and provide warmth in the winter.

Vendors

1-The Columbia Rifles Research Compendium