I'm not sure why you would want to use Betadine. It only slowly releases Iodine and is probably more expensive. The polyvinylpyrrolidone it contains is a positively charged polymer that dissolves in water or alcohol but not in ether. Therefore it may gel up your collodion. It may even react with the Iodine released during the aging process thus inhibiting the collodion ripening p
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All nitrocellulose is not the same. The cellulose molecule has multiple hydroxyl groups (OH). The nitric acid used must be mixed with enough fuming sulfuric acid to combine with all the by product water produced during the nitration or the water will dilute the nitric acid and stop the reaction before all the OH groups are nitrated. The nitrocellulose produced will swell to a gel but may not diss
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Ty is right. Do not use galvanized metal. Zinc will react with silver salts and iodine. If you searched for zinc in "photography" or "wet collodion" you might have come across one of many articles dealing with removing silver from used photographic fixer with Zinc. It will also react with the silver in your silver bath. On 12-09-2012 Matador Mac asked a question on this forum about decol
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Contact George Berkhofer in South Charleston @ georgeb@syscom.net
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Just a question but what is the melting point on that case resin? Ok for a hot car I presume.
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Mark, I think your simplest explanation is correct. Silver nitrate, like the potassium nitrate in pyrotechnics is a strong oxidizing agent itself. While any reaction with nitrates and alcohol is possible, it is doubtful that the acidic conditions in a silver bath are strong enough to produce much silver fulminate. If SF were present it would have detonated due to shock long before you began sand
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Take Rays advice. Always good. Too late now but you could have bought some silver nitrate on EBay last month for $25/oz. This fellow sold several pounds. Old stock but still good.
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Please post test results on this forum. Not a member of other forum. Won't let me in.
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Just a word of caution. You might have some silver bath problems from the Zinc in that "brass" coating. Mossy zinc is used to scavenge silver from used hypo baths.
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Still a valid test Bob. Nothing vs something. Looks like a case of collodion not ripening to me. When George and I first made up our collodion years ago, we tried using it immediately and it didn't work. When the plate was dipped in the silver bath, the film was thin and translucent, and the image was weak and fogged. After the collodion was allowed to stand and develop an orange color, it
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Oxygen iteself is probably not the strongest oxidizer present in collodion. Ether forms reactive and hazardous peroxides which can react with iodides and bromides. In fact the presence of peroxides in ether may be determined by reaction with potassium iodide to form iodine. Most ethers have preservatives added to prevent the build up of peroxides, the most common being butylated hydroxytolu
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Congrats! Did you make it? And all without any help from Ann Margret too!
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If Rays advice doesn't work out, you might try rubbing the bellows with cialis. Be sure and call your doctor for bellows that won't fold back up after 4 hours.
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Yes, Ammonium and lithium iodides and bromides, are alcohol soluble. No need to predissolve them in water before use. Just dissolve them in the alcohol you would normally add to the collodion. A little heat may be needed to speed up the process.
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Acteone was always a liquid with a density of 0.0792 grams/cc. To get liquid measure divide 2.0 by 0.792. Answer = 2.5 ml
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The formula looks very straightforward except for the calcium chloride. From the claim that "the stabilizer may be added to any of the well known collodions" I presume that it may also be used with bromides. I agree with Richard that it is probably intended for the graphic arts. Another difference between the Murrey formula and the formulae being used by most forum members is the 45/55 rati
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What's the patent number? Is Kodak claiming stability for wet plate purposes or just adding acetone to stop the collodion from forming peroxides or the cellulose nitrate from decomposing? There should be examples in the claims section. We should not assume that the only use for collodion is wet plates in 1933.
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The person who practically reinvented the Niepce heliochrome process is Darren Green of London. David Burder (UK) and I have made them for years and are quite familiar with the technology. The process requires immerging a silver Dag plate in a solution containing 3.4 % anhydrous ferric chloride and 2.2% copper sulfate pentahydrate for about 3 minutes until the surface turns a dull purplish gray.
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Please tell us what you are trying to make (heliochrome?) and what formula you are using.
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Some have said the no 8 refers to 8 baume but that is 50% acetic acid.
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Thanks Ray, You know what they say about bad money driving out the good stuff. Apparently it's the same with collodion "experts". It only takes the opinions from a few "fifty plate experts" to make more experienced artists throw in the towel. Who knows, after 100 more faulty plates those same 50 plate experts may just figure it out for themselves. Here is a complete change of subject. Yes
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Always iodize your old bath after you sun it. The intense light oxidizes the silver iodide to metallic silver. If you need to add more silver nitrate that will also dissolve more AgI. The bath needs to be saturated with silver iodide to work properly. If it is not saturated it will dissolve silver iodide out of the collodion film and create pin holes in the image.
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Cordelianutter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >my local drugstore > for things like denatured alcohol (which is called > rubbing alcohol or rubbing compound) Don't use Rubbing alcohol. That is isopropyl alcohol. Not suitable for collodion.
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Where in Canada? It's a big place. Anywhere near Toronto? Have you tried Mike Robinsons' Century Darkroom in Toronto? He knows everything about Dags and wet plates too.
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Bob, In many places it is also illegal to dump that silver down the drain. Better to reclaim and sell the stuff. Once down the drain it's lost forever. Speculators now predict (hope) that the price of new silver may go as high as $130 an oz.
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If you don't add any water to the collodion it will never get cloudy and will not require any clearing. It will however require ripening. Adding iodine does not promote clearing but it does promote ripening or color formation. Natural formation of free iodine from decomposing iodide salts in the collodion takes time, hense the ripening process. Adding iodine speeds up this process. Iodin
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Yes, sorry I did mean ammonium bromide not the iodide. You could go with a blend of the 2 iodides, but you should also add the bromide for the additional speed and color sensitivity that it gives you.
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If you can afford hundreds of grams of silver nitrate you can probably afford a few grams cadmium iodide. Get the Ammonium iodide to go with it. Both will dissolve in alcohol. No water necessary.
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Bob, It's the water you add that temporarily holds the KBr in suspension making the collodion appear cloudy. See the bottle on the right. Eventually the water+KBr falls to the bottom of the bottle as a yellow liquid. In the collodion without water (left bottle) all the KBr comes out as a white crystal. Have you tried an all KI collodion and compared it a KI/KBr collodion?
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Petzval Paul Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > John, > > So you are saying that I would be better off using > ammonium bromide (available here) with, say, > ammonium iodide and forget the potassium > altogether? No. Use Cadmium iodide for longer life if available. All ammonium collodions give lower contrast and shorter life. Try sodiu
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