Thanks Chriso, If your WP darkslide can hold two sheets of glass (used to sandwich the paper), it will work for calotypes. Paper can also be pasted onto the glass surface, (with a wet blotter in between) and loaded like a wet plate.
Forum: General Discussion

If any of you are interested in trying calotypes or waxed paper negatives A small group on Flickr has been formed dedicated to these processes. It is intended both for modern day calotypists as well as for those with an interest in the calotype as a historic process. Click here to visit and sign up: 'Paper v. collodion' from The Photographic News 1859. page 279
Forum: General Discussion

Thanks Tom, Ah so the back slides too. I'll get on with mocking one up out of carboard, then.
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Does anyone have a picture of the back of John's camera? I'm trying to figure it all out.
Forum: General Discussion

"The most popular of the early studio illuminants was the blue-flamed Bengal light. This was patented in France for portrait photography in 1854 and John Moule promoted its use for photography through his 1857 British patent (number 487 of 18 February). It was adopted by portrait studios as it was strong in 'actinic light' which collodion plates were most sensitive to. During the winter of 1860
Forum: General Discussion

This might help. "My electric light installation is perhaps the more powerful in London. Photographs superior to daylight, Pictures can now be taken in any weather and at any time." lol (Arthur Langton, working in Belgravia, London ?1886-1909?)
Forum: General Discussion

Eddie and John, thank you both. Tested the wax paper bath today. It reads ~ pH 3, thought it would have been higher. I added 140ml to 2000ml water, surely that will make lots of sodium acetate if I neutralise it. I take it there's no way to remove this salt once in solution, other than with distillation. I really should just try it and see.
Forum: General Discussion

Dear Forum, I have a 2L silver solution used for waxed paper negs, and I'd like to use it for wet-plate collodion. Problem: It contains about 7% acetic acid (glacial) Water 2000ml, Silver Nitrate 138g, Glacial Acetic Acid 140ml, Silver Iodide -trace Is there a way to remove the acetic acid, leaving silver nitrate behind (other than using a Rotary evaporator)? Many
Forum: General Discussion

Wow! Thanks, Ty. Is that leaf spring suspension I can see there? I'll probably try something like this (maybe a little bit smaller).
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Hello to all, I was wondering if anyone here has a picture of a photographic handcart/darkroom they could post (modern or period). I'd like to carry my whole kit and caboodle with me, including water - and I'm a little bit unsure about what sort of axle/wheels to use. Any help would be great, thanks.
Forum: General Discussion

Hello and thanks. Seems to be working.
Forum: General Discussion

Thanks Ray - Can the sulphur element (silver sulphide?) be converted back into silver? I'm aware that Thiourea is used in 'silver-dips' - but that contains sulphur too.
Forum: General Discussion

Just a little curious, but - Can anyone explain why Hypo and KCN fixed positives look different? What actually causes the colour shift from 'coffee cream' to neutral grey Why are tins fixed with potassium cyanide supposedly brighter? Why do cyanide fixed plates have that special 'blue corner'? Please don't go easy on the science.
Forum: General Discussion

Thanks Ray, I will try using saltpeter without nitric and silver nitrate. I will also try one-shot, supersaturated Hypo. Can hypo fixed highlights match those fixed with cyanide? I've been using H2SO4 in my developer which gives a silvery looking plate - I'd much prefer a non-reflective finish, though. As for my collodion, I've been using Ol' workhorse which is only a week old, and already
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I'd like to give my Hypo fixed Ambrotypes a little more zing. Are there any alternatives to Mercuric Chloride for pure white ambros? What about Chromium intensification has anyone ever tried this? I'd love to know, Richard
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That's an evil looking tent! (evil as in good) needs some bat wings, though. Just need to order blackout cloth - Is black calico lightproof? Thanks very much for posting the pictures. Richard
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Wayne, I'd like to know how the opening was designed to be lightproof? I want to avoid using velcro :-) Was it a simple roll-down 'flap'?
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Can't believe I missed this one, Sean. I'm guessing the fabric is simply a large square draped over the frame, it's hard to tell looking at the diagram. Still, looks like a doddle to build. Thank you, Richard
Forum: General Discussion

Afternoon all, I'm looking to build a lightweight dark-tent for the hills. Can't see it being too difficult a project, but would like to see some historically accurate designs to get me started. I'll be doing 5x7's to begin with but would like the option of doing 8x10's in the future. Just a couple of pics would be great. How light can I go do you think? (oh, and any tips for judging correct
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A great bunch of Napoleonic Hussars. (Not quite wet-plate era Gold toned kentmere POP print (weak neg, no intensification, exposed indoors for 1.5 hours) 13x18cm, Twelve second exposure at ~f11
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Has anyone tried this complicated-looking developer before? "Stuart Wortley's Developer" What would Acetate of lead + Formic acid do to the image?
Forum: General Discussion

My hands could do with a skin peel.
Forum: General Discussion

...Found this formula in the archive - posted by Tim Parson Ferric Sulfate.......................14grams Glacial Acetic Acid..................10ml Sulfuric Acid........................10ml Alcohol..............................10ml Distilled Water......................355ml fixed with hypo What's this developer like to work with? Has anyone posted work developed in such a way? I'd l
Forum: General Discussion

Sorry!
Forum: General Discussion

I read this in Unblinking Eye - "R.K.: I use an 1850’s formula that’s basically iron sulfate, Everclear and distilled water, and it’s got a few other items in it--I’d have to get my formulary book--ammonium bromide, ammonium iodide and a few other things like that. And you always add a little bit of old developer to the new developer, because there’s silver in there and it n
Forum: General Discussion

Managed to order mine late last night. Noticed that the cover had changed since I last logged on earlier in the day... I got a receipt, so I think it worked
Forum: Collodion Classifieds

Yup - I totally agree with you! It's just that we do things differently in the UK - (maybe I'm being unfair) Ethanol - Neigh on impossible to buy over here. Have to write to HM customs and exise for a licence to purchase Methylated Alcohol! Cadmium Bromide - Phoned Silverprint and was told that the chemical is ''illegal and explosive'' they do sell potassium Br/I and Ammonium Br, though.
Forum: General Discussion

I've got my Collodion, alcohol and ether - I also have some potassium and ammonium salts. Here's my conundrum. I'm trying to pick a cadmium-free collodion formula, and I've narrowed it down to two choices. 1) Potassium Bromide + Iodide 2) Potassium Bromide + Iodide / Ammonium Bromide + Iodide (Disderi's spring formula) What I want to ask is this... What are the differences, if any, be
Forum: General Discussion

Just to let you know, my gum sandarac arrived yesterday. Crushed a little and mixed with Methylated alcohol - it dissolves! Who would have thought it?! BTW - Gum Sandarac and Frankincense look almost identical, to me. Richard
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Is there an Artcraft in the UK?
Forum: General Discussion