I was wondering if anyone has tried or considered one of this machines? Since the die just rolls through I would think it would work with home made epoxy type dies.
I am thinking for the outer embossed paper and the metal matte and preserver. It may not have enough pressure. Looking for a better way than hammering them out.
Yeah, I've looking into those embossing machines for scrapbooking... Not enough pressure. Although, if you wanted to design your own matte and preserver, they have services out there that will make custom dies for you for a pretty affordable price.
If you're wanting to replicate the originals with the fine stippling, I think a hammer is the only option.
Speaking of cases, I'm working on a few right now with a more contemporary approach to the coverings.... I think they're going to look spectacular! I'll post more info. when I get to a place where I can shoot photos.
The best results I ever had was while I worked in a trade bindery and was able to use the foot clamp pressure of the larger paper cutter we had. This was substantial pressure, 2KG, and that copper took that stamping perfectly. Amazingly, the epoxy steel dies held together and even today will make stampings if I want to. But now, its a big rubber mallet and the 'hard table'.
If you could locate some machine which had a hydraulic pressure clamp like the cutter, a hard strong even pressure, it would work fine.
I used to drive my daughter CRAZY hammering out those stupid mats in the room behind hers....
Cases are really neat. I got the first 'shiver up my spine' years ago as a newby wet plate photog when I made my own cases and actually put in the very first soldier image. really sets these images off. I made them from 1/16 plate up to 8X10 size. The sixths and ninths were my favorites. There are some really nice military mats in these sizes that you can use to make the dies.
One reenactment...the WORST single event I ever attended...was at Hershey Park. we were the "freaks" off on the side of the parking lot...in a rain soaked field. I done 1 (one) image all weekend. it was a cased 1/16 plate.
what a waste of time and effort..........................
Great looking matte Andy. I know hammering works great, Ive done it and thats why Id like to find another way. I just dont like that part. Ill be making some new dies soon though. I picked up a few new mattes and some really detailed cases in great shape to make molds from. Ill try the stuff you told me about when we had lunch.
No, I'm leaving them copper and spraying them with clear lacquer. I did think about electroplating them with gold, but now gold is so damn expensive...not worth it. The preservers I was doing in .003 until I ran out, then switched to .002. I don't notice a huge difference other than they're stiffer and easier to cut out.
I think the designs for the old mattes and preservers are really nice so I replicate those, but I'm moving more towards an updated/modern design for the cases...kinda mixing old with new. I like them in copper this way and it saves a step. The couple I'm working on right now I'm going to cover with carbon fiber and resin and polish up real glossy, but they'll have all the vintage fixings on the interior. We'll see how they turn out. Still trying to decide how I'm going to handle putting a hinge on them once they're covered..much easier when its leather or paper and they're just varnished afterwards. Carbon fiber and resin won't be flexible.
Hopefully I can make a big batch over the winter if things turn out the way I like. The last time I made cases, I was unemployed and had no disposable income, so I couldn't invest in a belt sander...hand sanding/shaping those things is a pain. I hand sanded the couple I've got going right now, but if they turn out nice, I'll get a nice sander so I can work faster and more consistently. I was also cutting everything out with a dremel, but now I've got my table saw going, so I can cut a bunch at one time and be done with it.
I really like the 1/9th plate size for cases myself...feels like more of a keepsake than a larger image I think...
Nice mattes indeed. What are you doing for the trim that goes around the inside perimeter of the case? I've made some from velvet glued over thin strips of poster board, but it's messy and a time-consuming PIA. Any quicker ways of doing it?
I started molding and casting cases and frames with resin. The material looks just like gutta percha. for hinges, I plan to glue thin leather strips to the spine. Not sure what I'll do for a closure.
I do the velvet trim the same way... I think cotton velvet looks the best.
I usually do a leather hinge as well, but these are going to be covered in carbon fiber, so it kinda throws a wrench in that idea. I may find some tiny hinges and see if I can set those into the wood on the box and then cover them with the CF so only the hinge barrel is showing.
the inside strip, the 'pinch' strip, make that like an upside down 'J'. cover one side of the thin strip fully, but the back side of the strip, only have the velveteen go about 1/3 of the way. That lets you put this inside the case but gives more space toward the bottom of the case than the top. As you squeeze the image pack in, it rests down inside the larger opening, and is held in by two layers of the velveteen on top of the image pack. the pinch strip should come about 1/16 inch above the bottom wall of the case.
I had good luck doing these using the deep red ribbon that is fuzzy on one side and some synthetic material on the back. This is sold around Christmas time and is used for making wreaths etc. Some of it is very cheap and the velvet rubs off, spend as much as you can on it and you get a better quality material that has more endurance. The thing here is that it lets you make the pinch strip much narrower than two layers of velveteen, and look more authentic inside the case. this is a part you put together with contact cement.
You may also be interested in this... I made a jig tonight (long overdue) for cutting the cases in half after they've been glued and sanded so I don't lose any fingers... Gotta get a couple pieces of hardware for it, but other than that, its ready to go!
not sure if you mean 'half' in an exact sense...but the case top is always much thinner than the case bottom. Getting the 'thinness' of the case correct is one of the ways to make a more authentic item. Early dag cases were thinner than the ones used later for ambrotypes, but not much thinner.
Yeah, that's what I meant...not technically in half, but into two pieces... Either way, now that I'm setup on the table saw for this, I'm going to get a big batch of birch plywood cut up and spend the cold months making cases... Been wanting to do that a long time!