It was technique. I was not letting the plate dry enough before putting it into the silver. On the plus side, I have 800 Ml of colloidon made up.
Let the Gibbs slapfest begin.
I can take it.
I'm going to sit tn the corner now.
Thats a VERY common mistake and one frequently done by those new to the process. They assume everything needs to be RUSHED.
Proper time is when the bottom drip corner skins enough that it does not come off wet to the fingers touch.
Feel good, since youve learned something valuable.
PS looks like from the tonality of the drip edge you are fixing in hypo. Remember that when you fix in hypo TWO salts are moved, one visibly (the image clears) and the other invisibly (more time). After the initial clearing, which may take lets say 2 minutes, you must leave the plate in the hypo for again as long to let the second salt be neutralized. The plate you posted, for the look of the drip edge, needed more time in the fixer. Plates that have not been fully 'fixed' with hypo will turn greenish or continue to darken. You cant 'overfix' in hypo as you can in cyanide (image thins and blacks burn off). Working for the public, Id suggest you leave the plates in the hypo for as long as it takes to dissolve the drip edge color. A nice rinse with a good trickle or stream of water, then stand it up on edge in a bucket of water for about 10 minutes (or longer if you can) and then it will be close to archival.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/17/2011 01:32PM by Ray Morgenweck.
Thanks again, Ray. Yes this was in Hypo, I was inside giving a demo, and thought the cyanide might be a bad idea. I was only doing 2 plates during the presentation, so I wasn't too worried about the collodion fumes.