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Thread: cleaning a 1855

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    31

    Default cleaning a 1855

    I have been off the field for a few years (joined the air force) and recently found a unit so im back on the field. I only owned enfields so springfields are new to me. When the 1855 came to my door i noticed a little rust starting to form on the barrel, any way to prevent this? I remember seeing springfields back in the day just after one humid night would be a rust bucket. I could wipe it down with oil all the time but i was hoping for something alot easier, maybe a clear coat or something on the barrel?
    Jason D
    USAF

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Easton, PA
    Posts
    5,145

    Default

    Given how hot the barrels can get when firing, I would not recommend any type of modern clear coat as they would tend to oxidize (turn brown) over time under those conditions. The best recommendation that I would give you is take a rag and coat it with a heavy wax/natural oil combination (I use a beeswax/oil mixture), carry the rag in your haversack, and then use it to wipe down the outside of your barrel after cleaning or firing if you are not cleaning. I would also wipe it down at night if you have been using all day without firing. Have been using this approach with my Richmond for several years now and I only occasionally get small rust spots that I can quickly deal with when I get home.
    Thomas H. Pritchett
    Moderator, Military & Other Business Conferences
    www.campgeiger.org

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    87

    Default Cleaning 1855s

    Quote Originally Posted by Sharps_user84
    I have been off the field for a few years (joined the air force) and recently found a unit so im back on the field. I only owned enfields so springfields are new to me. When the 1855 came to my door i noticed a little rust starting to form on the barrel, any way to prevent this? I remember seeing springfields back in the day just after one humid night would be a rust bucket. I could wipe it down with oil all the time but i was hoping for something alot easier, maybe a clear coat or something on the barrel?
    Jason D
    USAF
    I have known folks who have used boiled linseed oil on their metal parts, barrels/butt plates etc. I WOULD NOT recommend using it on locks, or trigger assemblies.
    Keep in mind ,linseed oil takes a while to dry between coats, and should be reapplied every now and again.
    With that said, it is a time proven rust preventative.

    Wendell
    "My poor Orphans! My poor Orphan Brigade! They have cut it to pieces."

    General John c. Breckinridge, 2 January, 1863

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    New Ham'sha
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Linseed oil also turns green over time. Tom had a good recommendation. A little beeswax goes a long way.
    Michael McComas
    Bailey, Bennett & Scott, Tailors
    www.confederate-tailor.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Posts
    335

    Default cleaning the 1855

    Tom, thanks for the information on cleaning the Springfields. I have been doing this for several years,however, I bought an Einfield right from the start.
    Just this past year I wanted to improve my Federal impression,so I bought a Springfield. I have never worried about rust in large amounts till now. I have not taken this rifle in the field yet, because I haven't done a Federal impression since I bought the rifle. As one 3rd Ark soldier to another, I would like to know what kind of "natural oil" are you talking about? Where can you get the beeswax? How the beeswax comes supplied? O.....I almost forgot where can I purchase these items. I had a good friend of mine looking at my Einfield on day and told me I needed to work on restoring the color inthe stock. He told me about Tru oil. I used it,and it restored the look to my rifle. I wouldn't not recomend using this alot. I have used this only one time and it was when I did that "complete once a year full break down cleaning." I applied a very very light coat and let it dry. It looked good. This might not be the recommended way,however, it works for me.
    P.L. Parault




    "Three score and ten I can remember well, within the volume of which time I have seen hours dreadful and things strange: but this sore night hath trifled former knowings."


    William Shakespeare

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Posts
    335

    Default

    I know that you can get beeswax from sutlers but can you by it anywhere else that is a modern mercentile?
    P.L. Parault




    "Three score and ten I can remember well, within the volume of which time I have seen hours dreadful and things strange: but this sore night hath trifled former knowings."


    William Shakespeare

  7. #7

    Default

    What about those bee keepers? They have loads of beeswax!!!
    Wil Clark
    Independent Re-enactor
    Have 12 ancestors that fought for the Union
    "To charge the enemy or enter a battle when one knows that there is no hope of success, requires courage of a much higher order than when the soldier is sustained by the enthusiasm born of hope."
    -- Colonel St. Clair A. Mulholland

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    87

    Default Rust

    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey Bennett & Scott
    Linseed oil also turns green over time. Tom had a good recommendation. A little beeswax goes a long way.
    I have used Linseed oil on several guns with no ill effect, several are over ten years old. I believe you may be thinking of Chromium Trioxide or aqua fortis ? They are very old natural stains used for hundreds of years. There are several examples of "Golden Age" rifles which have turned green over the years due to the chemicals used to finish the wood.

    There are certainly better alternatives to B.L.O. in regards to rust preventitives, but it is one option.
    Wendell
    "My poor Orphans! My poor Orphan Brigade! They have cut it to pieces."

    General John c. Breckinridge, 2 January, 1863

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Easton, PA
    Posts
    5,145

    Default

    I would like to know what kind of "natural oil" are you talking about? Where can you get the beeswax?
    The product that I was using was a Kiwi Campdry Beeswax Waterproofer, which was a Beeswax, lanolin oil mix. Was having trouble finding it but Charles Reynolds posted last month that you could find it at Amazon.com. Based upon that information, I was able to track a source of it to the following link:
    http://www.nmia.com/~bohemond/Bootsh...e-products.htm
    Thomas H. Pritchett
    Moderator, Military & Other Business Conferences
    www.campgeiger.org

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tompritchett
    The product that I was using was a Kiwi Campdry Beeswax Waterproofer, which was a Beeswax, lanolin oil mix. Was having trouble finding it but Charles Reynolds posted last month that you could find it at Amazon.com. Based upon that information, I was able to track a source of it to the following link:
    http://www.nmia.com/~bohemond/Bootsh...e-products.htm
    Thank you Tom for providing me this information.
    P.L. Parault




    "Three score and ten I can remember well, within the volume of which time I have seen hours dreadful and things strange: but this sore night hath trifled former knowings."


    William Shakespeare

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