J.T. Martin Sack Coat

[DosMas1863]

Looking at getting a new sack coat and want to know if this is authentic like it says in the description?

J. T. Martin was the largest contractor for the Federal government with plants in New York, Philadelphia, Cincinnati and St. Louis. 85% of the J.T. Martin coat was machine stitched within the factory and the rest of the coat was hand stitched.

This J.T. Martin 4 button sack coat is made similar to those ade during the Civil War. This coat features a 9-11 oz. Federal (navy) blue wool. The body of the sack coat is lined with 9-11 oz. tan wool and the sleeves are lined with muslin. It has a roll collar, an inside pocket, and a 4 button front of medium 3/4" Federal Eagle buttons.

This coat is an authentic reproduction but without the hand stitching where the lining meets the collar, where the body and sleeve linings meet, where the bottom of the sleeve lining meets the wool, the buttonholes, and some areas around the inside pocket. Handstiching over the machine stitching of these areas is available as an option. Otherwise, the customer may handstich these areas. Call us for detailed instructions.

Proudly MADE IN USA in the Great State of Idaho.

Its from C&C Sutlery in Idaho.

[pvt_jb]

This should answer the question "This coat is an authentic reproduction but without the hand stitching where the lining meets the collar, where the body and sleeve linings meet, where the bottom of the sleeve lining meets the wool, the buttonholes, and some areas around the inside pocket. Handstiching over the machine stitching of these areas..."

I have to say be careful with the made in the USA tag. I ordered trousers from this vendor many moons ago and there was a made in Packi sticker affixed firmly to the inside of the waistband. I think this is further supported in the fact that why would you handstich over the machine stitch if someone paid the extra? When you made the item why not just use handstiching instead of doing it twice? Maybe because someone else already made the coat? Just a thought.

For just $45 more you can get a coat from Wambaugh and White or other places that has the features he says are missing (his shipping is $15 and WW includes shipping in their shown price).


Please everyone do yourself a favor and compare the prices when looking for gear with shipping. So often the difference just isn't that much.

[fedpard24]

I'll agree with Jeremy on this one. If authenticity is what you are going for, then save up the extra $50 and get one that you know is quality instead of having to wonder. Nothing worse that buying something twice!

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

If you're looking for "right", always avoid anyone who uses the statment "Authentic, but....." I concur with the esteemed gentlemen above, save your pennies and go for someone who truly uses correct material, pattern, and construction.

[SackCoat]

When I first got into the hobby I purchased from the vendor the poster mentioned including a sack coat. "Great example of why you should get guidance before purchasing blindly"

My opinion, merchandise from the mentioned vendor, including sack coats, lacks in quality and authenticity "I'm being extremely kind here as my four letter description would probably be banned by the moderator!"

Upper body wear and hats are what people focus in on the most, so get a good one even if it means waiting and saving back. I personally purchased my contract from Wambaugh & White and it was well worth the money.

[musketbal]

In my personal opinion, you can not go wrong with Wambaugh and White. Excellent customer service and product quality. He made me one and it is dead on as far as authenticity.

Brent Conner

[SackCoat]

Link offers good information on the sack coat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=momqaQFJgX4

[Calum]

Another option is the Wambaugh and White kits. You get the quality at a lower price, just by putting some of your own time & sweat in. And you also get a huge appreciation for those who make the garments, especially in a timely manner!

Calum

[GreencoatCross]

To clarify, our reproduction contract sack coats do feature the top half of the sleeve linings set by machine with the lower half overcast by hand, as well as a machine sewn lower collar edge. The raw edge of the collar is turned up and machine sewn through the front facings & interfacings, lining, and of course through the exterior of the blouse itself just below the collar/neck line seam. These two details are claimed by some to be inaccurate however a number of surviving J.T. Martin blouses feature both of these sewing techniques executed by machine. The contract blouse that we offer is based directly on an original in a private collection that is marked only with black size dots and an F.H. Shaffer/Cincinnati inspector stamp. While it does share some construction and patterning similarities to extant Martin blouses, we (and the owner) feel that it is likely a product of the Cincinnati depot.

[DosMas1863]

Thank you for the input. I'm glad I asked before making a decision. So I am guessing the getting a J.T. Martin Sack coat would be the wisest investment for me to do? I want an authentic coat that can last for quite awhile and can cover eastern, western theater from 61-65. Thanks for the help I deeply appreciate it.