Schuylkill Arsenal Blouse
Schuylkill Arsenal blouses are completely handsewn, as per the originals, with the body being lined with wool flannel (solid, plaid, or checked) and the sleeves being lined in light-weight cotton. The blouses bodies are constructed from indigo, with the facing often being constructed from a slightly different dyed cloth as per some originals.
Schuylkill Arsenal Trousers
Like the blouse, Schuylkill Arsenal Trousers are completely handsewn from sky blue or dark blue kesery. The trousers may have rounded-mule-ear pockets or side-seam pockets, with both models retaining a watch pocket. Some trousers had contrasting sky blue waistbands (made from sky blue kesery, but from a different dye lot). This is an option that can be incorporated into the reproduction. The trousers are closed with paper backed tin buttons and marked accordingly to the period sizing charts.
Schuylkill Arsenal Jacket
Other than the mounted service jacket and dress coat, the Schuylkill Arsenal jacket is one of the finest garments provided by the Federal government. The jacket is constructed from fine dark blue kesery, lined in wool (check, solid, or plaid), with the sleeves lined in cotton. The body is closed with Federal eagles and the sleeves have operating two button cuffs.
Schuylkill Arsenal Great Coat
Schuylkill Arsenal Great Coats are constructed from sky blue kesery and are lined in wool and cotton. These heavy coats are completely handsewn, with the body being closed with both buttons and hooks and eyes.
Federal Contract Clothing
My offering of Federal contract/issue drawers are completely handsewn using FHW canton flannel. The drawers have both back and leg ties, are closed with paper backed tin buttons, and are stamped appropriately.
Federal Contract Shirts
The Federal contract shirt that I offer is based on a number of different surviving originals and images, maintaining the common features seen throughout. The shirts can be made from red, grey, or blue flannel and are closed with paper-backed tin buttons. The shirts include one outside pocket, with the construction of the shirts almost completely done by machine, with exception to the buttonholes and small details as per the originals.
JT Martin Trousers
Patterned and constructed off of the surviving originals, the JT Martin contract trousers display a large amount of machine and hand details. The trouser are made from sky blue kesery, lined in white cotton, and closed with paper backed tin buttons. The trousers maintain side-seam pockets and a unique back yoke.
Federal Contract Blouse
Outside of the SA blouse, contract blouses were the most widely issued Federal garment of the war. My copy of these blouses is based on a number of different originals, with varying details, but with the same basic construction. The blouses are mainly machine sewn, as per the originals and are lined in a number of different wools and wool cotton blends. The blouse is closed with keyhole corded buttonholes and Federal eagle buttons.
Contract Great Coats
Contract great coats can be made from sky blue kesery, dark blue kesery, dark blue wool jean, or sky blue wool jean. These coats are constructed mainly by period machine, with handsewn details and buttonholes (as per the originals). The body lining is of blue, red, white, grey, or brown wool or wool jean, with the sleeves lined in cotton. The interfacing is of a rough burlap material and the buttons are to be Federal eagles.
Price: $650.00 Wool Jean
Price: $550.00 Wool Kesery
Federal Private Purchase Clothing
Private Purchase Blouse
A private purchase blouse can be made in a wide variety of styles and cuts, with most featuring additional pockets and more of a civilian fashion than military. The coat can also feature finer details such as extensive quilting, corded buttonholes, silk lining, and velvet collars. These blouses can be based on surviving originals or photographs from the period. As each of these coats are based on individual garments, there is no set price. Please e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org for more details or if you have a particular coat that you would like me to copy.
Civilian Clothing 1850’s – 1860’s
I offer a wide range of civilian coats, trousers, vests, drawers, and shirts. Unlike military clothing there are hundreds of different patterns and styles to follow, with pricing according to fabric, cut, style, and construction. Please send me a e-mail at email@example.com to discuss the details of any civilian projects.