hickory cloth

[Sam Haywood]

Hickory cloth is a soft but sturdy striped twill cotton denim of about five oz. weight. From the 1920's to the 50's it was used for carpenter and railroad workers overalls The cloth is woven with small brown and white, blue and white and occasionally red and white stripes and some checks. In the 1800's this cloth could be woven at home on weighted looms and was a common chore for the youngsters. There are many mentions of hickory shirts. I've also seen jackets and pants mentioned. The nature of this cloth as its being used by the poor and its hard use by laborors leaves no examples for the researchers of today. Now my question is has anyone seen original items made of this cloth that dates pre Civil War? Here is one photo in The Photographic History of the Civil War, Forts and Artillery, by Robert Sampson Lanier, pg. 159. There may be more.

Regards, Sam Haywood

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

I know of 1850's British sailors utilizing the cloth, as evidenced by bodies being disinterred with fragments of blue and white hickory cloth in their shirting a few years ago. There is also reference to militiamen from Tennessee and Georgia coming down to Florida during the 3rd Seminole War (late 1850's) by journal accounts describing their appearance in "rough blue and white striped Hickory shirts".

[Murph]

A big question regarding hickory cloth that I can't seem to answer is whether or not the early 20th century hickory cloth is an appropriate weave for that used during the mid-19th century.

[roger]

cant any body just have fun anymore?

[billwatson2]

Sure. That's what these folks are doing, having fun. Their idea of having fun is being as honest as they can in depicting their history, right down to the weave in the hickory cloth. Your mileage may vary, and that's perfectly all right. If you enjoy what you're doing and they enjoy what they're doing, does there need to be a problem?

[Sam Haywood]

Caleb, In regards to hickory cloth it's good you have questions about the weave, weight, color, the size of the stripes the amount it's brushed etc. etc. etc... Every piece in your kit should be scrutinized to some degree. The level of authenticity you strive for governs this. I have been making gear over 25 yrs for Living Historians and Authentics. I've held in my hands for extended periods of time, and looked at with magnifying glasses and linin thread counting loops, 1000's of original and ID'd Civil War artifacts. I've made equipments numbering in the thousands. I have spent many hours searching for material and have had very little luck finding any exact matches, the closest I can find has to be the best I can find. Now I've said all that to say this. Do the best you can. Reproduce the best you can. Buy the best you can. Ask questions, go to museums,read and learn all you can. I will be.

Regards, Sam Haywood

[Nighthawk]

A John Stillwagon gem, I've never forgotten: "It's better to know what makes an item correct than it is to know who makes a correct item."
Regards,

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

A John Stillwagon gem, I've never forgotten: "It's better to know what makes an item correct than it is to know who makes a correct item."
Regards,

Truer words were never typed....

[KarinTimour]

A big question regarding hickory cloth that I can't seem to answer is whether or not the early 20th century hickory cloth is an appropriate weave for that used during the mid-19th century.

This post is a little disorganized -- just some fast thoughts on where you might look for samples of surviving hickory cloth. If you've already scoped these out, no problem, just offering them as possible resources.

1. Possible archives/museums that might have samples of hickory cloth or have preserved clothing made of hickory cloth.

a. The Textile Museum in Lowell, MA
b. Textile Museum (don't know the exact name, but I'm sure a google search will bring it up) in Bath, England.
c. Textile Museum in Boras, Sweden (massive textile factories there, now has several museums)
d. there is a Canadian historical museum with substantial textile holdings in either Ottawa or Toronto, Ontario, Canada. A google search will shake loose which one it is -- the museum in question has a substantial website.

2. Sailor's clothing
a. New Bedford Whaling Museum, New Bedford, MA
b. Mystic Seaport, Mystic, CT
c. Plymouth, United Kingdom was the home port for much of the British Navy, would not be at all surprised if they have a Maritime Museum or three.

3. Working men's clothing
a. the Heinz Museum in Pittsburgh, PA might have something.
b. Mining Museum, Glace Bay, Nova Scotia that might have miner's clothing.
c. Also contact Old Sturbridge Village (Sturbridge, MA) and Greenfield Village, Dearborn, MI as either might have some workingmen's clothing in their archives.

4. Were there any samples of hickory cloth on the Bertram or the Arabia?

5. When it comes to historic weaving, Rabbit Goody and Family Heirloom Weavers both spring to mind. Again, both are commerical concerns, with limited time, but an email or phone call might turn up suggestions of where to look for hickory cloth samples.

6. An often underutilized resource is the various state museums and archives.

7. If hickory cloth were ever used for Confederate uniforms, is there anything in the holdings of the Museum of the Confederacy, the Confederate Relic Room or Confederate Memorial Hall (may have the title of this museum incorrect) in New Orleans?

8. I wouldn't know hickory cloth if I fell over it in an alley. When it comes to textiles for period men's wear, I'd strongly recommend a post over on the Sewing Academy website, in the section for "men's clothing" as some of the people who post in that section of the website have forgotten far more than I will ever know about clothing, weaving, men's clothing, etc.

Just because it was a very common, ordinary, "go-to" fabric doesn't mean that no one saved any of it -- but it might mean having to dig a bit to find where it is. Trust me -- I've spent years looking for surviving socks. Quick show of hands -- how many of you are veterans? How many of you saved a pair of worn socks that you're planning to donate to an archive? Thought so.

And yet, I've been able to locate a relatively large number of surviving socks in various nooks and crannies around the country. Bet you'll find some hickory cloth, too.

Hope that's helpful,
Karin Timour
Period Knitting -- Socks, Sleeping Hats, Balaclavas
Atlantic Guard Soldier's Aid Society
Email: Ktimour@aol.com

[Elaine Kessinger]

The following are pictures of a boy's "jumpsuit" and wamus (that's a light jacket) of a sturdy, twill weave striped fabric that I would associate with "hickory cloth." Augusta Auctions is very reputable and dates this to the "1860s". We suspect it dates to the very late 1860s as the style of jumpsuit doesn't begin showing up in other sources until the 1870s and 1880s.


One thing you may need to consider is that terms applied to fabrics have changed drastically over the last 150+ years. What was called "hickory cloth" in period may be applied to a totally different fabric today.