Musket Wax

[LioZac0261]

Another idea I have is applying a single thick coat of low-gloss tung oil, and using carnauba wax as regular protection.

Any thoughts? I hate to be so bothersome, but having no experience, this isn't something I want to second-guess.

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

As shared, some lads use low gloss tung oil.

As with modern BLO, modern tung oil tends to have additives as well. Without them it is hygroscopic. "Tung Oil" is kind of a generic term, and NUG is a compound or preparation that also includes cobalt dryer. Without a drying agent, it can stay tacky for a long time, and get sticky on high humidity and on hot days. I have seen stocks sweat it out in 90 degree plus sunshine (BLO) too.

Some lads like it better. Unrelated trivia... the U.S. army had being using BLO but in 1942 changed over to tung oil.

If you soak the stock, you can get away with not hand-rubbing simulations of what tused to be called "London Oil" finishes where beaucoup hand-rubbed coats were carefullly applied and rubbed in on fine, gentlemanly or princley guns who could afford to have it done. BUT, you will find that stock wood will drink it in at various rates in various locations. Especially with what the Indian teak has been treated with.
Even with naked wood, NUG when oil varnishing a stock, one finds that it is splotchy due to heavy concentrations of oil having gone in, and areas where it has "sealed" the near-surface. As a reult, with each application the "shiney" versus "dry" looking areas become less and less until one has achieved an overall look or impression of a uniformly finished stock.

I do not know what is already on or in your teak stock, but I would guess you will not get a uniform look with just one uneven application. And will have to do several.

Last, with tung oil.. it dries slowly as it is a drying oil that dries by polymerization rather than evaporation. Japan Dryer can speed up the process. Even with "low gloss," it is too shiney to leave alone so when dry you will have to000/0000 steel wool it, or steel wool and oil it, to kill the gloss.

I used to use tung oil in simulation, but did not like its gloss- and that is when I changed over to the so-called "One Third" formulae or recipes (linseed oil, varnish for resin, mineral spirits/turpentine, and a touch of Japan Dryer as an accelerant.) By mixing my own, I get a CW look, but got rid of the 3-4 weeks of still tacky problems, as well as stocks sweating in the summer.

As with many things in the Hobby, we all have our druthers...

Curt

[LioZac0261]

By mixing my own, I get a CW look, but got rid of the 3-4 weeks of still tacky problems, as well as stocks sweating in the summer.

That's one of my major concerns. The area in which I live is extremely, hot, humid, and sits right on the coast (so corrosion is also an issue, for both wood and metal).

I may try this "One Third" recipe:

By linseed oil, is that just regular linseed oil or the aforementioned modern BLO?
I don't know too much about varnishes, but I assume I'd buy the low-gloss variety?
Mineral spirits I have in gallons (I used to paint).

[LioZac0261]

I contacted the company, and they said they applied carnauba wax prior to shipping. They recommended adding just linseed oil cut with turpentine.

So, it appears that the lacquer was applies to the entire exterior of the musket? Should I even disassemble it before applying a finish?

[LioZac0261]

I contacted the company, and they said they applied carnauba wax prior to shipping. They recommended adding just linseed oil cut with turpentine.

So, it appears that the lacquer was applies to the entire exterior of the musket? Should I even disassemble it before applying a finish?

I finished the musket last week using a combination of Mr. Schmidt's "One-Third" Recipe and natural citrus-based carnauba wax. I applied it in the period manner to the entire exterior. Some stain came off, but the result looks surprisingly good (I've never had experience with this, but compared to photographs, it looks pretty much like an ABW stock). Here's some pictures, any thoughts and comments are welcome, even for my impression in general. http://www.flickr.com/photos/6639691...in/photostream.

As an aside, I was portraying SCVI but had to fall-in with another unit. The other South Carolinians had galvanized, and I couldn't pack my Federal kit.

[Boyd Miles]

It is hard to give a fair evaluation of an impression just by photos so I can only give one general bit of advice. Move your haversack around to the back, cartridge box too. the bayonet more to the side. All of it needs to be out of your way when doing the manual of arms, marching and such.
I was expecting to see photos of the musket with enough detail to see how your finish came out. How did it do in the sun? Any oily patches in the heat?

[LioZac0261]

I was hoping to upload more photos of the stock itself, but the files seem tobe corrupt. My apologies.

No, the stock wasn't oily or sticky. It dried completely in 12 hours. The stained may have lighten ever so slightly where I handled it just forward of the lockplate. It's hard to tell for sure.

[Boyd Miles]

Is it rubbing off onto you or your clothes? If not looks like you have the problem licked.

[LioZac0261]

Nope, it's completely dry. I didn't even need to use steel wool to knock off the shine, because it has a satisfactory appearance (looking at photos and comparing it to other defarbed muskets).

Specifically, I just used satin spar varnish and boiled linseed oil, in addition to the mineral spirits and japan drier. Add a light coat of paste wax for protection between events and it should last for quite a while. Howard's paste wax isn't petroleum based, so it's not as harsh on wood, from what I understand.