Musket Wax

[doughboy]

a non period alternative that offers a very similar finish would be tung oil available at most big box hardware stores. Tung oil varnish will provide a varnish (shiney) finish that can be knocked down with a little 0000 steel wool.

[LibertyHallVols]

Here is a link to "everything you ever wanted to know about refinishing a musket stock but were afraid to ask Curt".

Enjoy!

[LioZac0261]

I found some citrus-based natural paste wax (which contains carnauba) at a local hardware store. I believe it's made by Howard & Co. It's designed specifically for protecting antique furniture (doesn't contain petroleum-based ingredients), finished and unfinished woods.

I don't have any space left on my gun bench to undertake such a process, so along with a few minor repairs, I'm having a professional apply the paste wax. So that means disassembling and then applying the wax, since period hard-oil was apparently applied prior to final assembly.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I feel after 150+ years, the finish on surviving examples would be very different from its original condition? Certainly there exists period descriptions, I'm just curious.

I had the fortune of handling an original Palmetto musket. The steel was in excellent shape, as was the brass furnishings. The wood was pitted, grooved, and looked like a well-beaten wood floor (so it was hard to tell). Someone even carved their initials in the stock.

[TheQM]

For what it's worth, I use paste furniture wax on all my weapons that won't be used for a while. I do both the wood and metal with the wax. It protects the metal from rust and seals the pores in the wood. It's easy to use. Just wipe on with a soft rag, let dry and wipe down with an old t-shirt.

I also use the wax on my antique guns, but only on the metal parts. You can always remove the stuff from the metal.

[WBROWN]

One of my favorite finishes (durable as well) is a 50/ 50 mix of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil.
The mineral spirits will shorten the "drying period" between coats.
Apply the finish VERY sparingly, a few drops will do , rub it into the wood until you feel it heating up from the friction.
I have applied as many as 20+ coats of finish, and as little as 5 or 6.
The key is rub it into the wood vigorisly, and never overapply.
As for a stain. Stay away from the stuff you buy at the local home center.
Log Cabin Shop sells stains made by Mr. Homer Dangler. Well worth the money. And they come in three different shades.
Hope this helps.
Y.M.H.S.
Wendell

[GenuineInformation]

I have used Howard's Feed-N-Wax on the stocks of two shotguns and my M1842 Springfield repro, and plan to use it on my P1853 Barnett contract Enfield repro. In my opinion, it is a superior product and perfectly suited to oil-finish gun stocks. The Browning BPS I use for duck hunting has had its stock saturated with many thin coats of Feed-N-Wax, which speaks to its protective and water repellant qualities.

Best,
JSK

[billwatson2]

"Correct me if I'm wrong, but I feel after 150+ years, the finish on surviving examples would be very different from its original condition?"

Sure. If neglected, the finish deteriorates and eventually disappears, especially if the musket is regarded as army surplus junk for the first 90 years of its life and stuck in a damp basement corner. (I'm raising a hand here). But I know where there are some pre-Civil War flintlock muskets that have been kept first in a county armory and then under glass in a county museum, however, and they look pretty good, presumably with not much more than an occasional dusting. But your goal is to try to get a finish that is, to appearance and touch, similar to the original when it was new, right? Not easy, we're working from limited information on what was used and even more limited information on how it actually turned out. We can, though, easily overdo it and make the finish so slick you can't hold on to the musket wearing dress parade gloves. The originals were finished by someone with an eye to making a profit, not by someone treating the weapon like fine art or jewelry. I'm not saying you'll do that, I'm just mentioning that it's one more pitfall we can encounter, like patching up haversacks: Nah. Probably most of the time "when it wore out, they got a new one."

[VetArms]

Were muskets ever finished with wax or regularly waxed? If so, is there a period-style wax that can be bought and used? Should I stick with whatever this "Carbuba" wax is?

Originally, after being thoroughly oiled, muskets were lacquered in preparation for shipment or storage. The lacquer was applied not only to the wood, but to the entire exterior surface of the musket - metal and all. Attached are the regulations for finishing of muskets for your review. These instructions pre-date the production of the Model 1842, but the process would be much the same. Something that approximates this process would be more historically accurate and durable than using wax.

I find the following process to be most satisfactory in replicating the above referenced look:

Once you have the stock sanded and stained a satisfactory walnut color, apply an even coat of lacquer or shellac to the piece using a soft brush. You must work quickly as the lacquer/shellac dries very quickly and if you continue brushing after it becomes tacky you will create peeling and streaks. Be sure to watch for and avoid drips around the inletting. Although the piece may feel dry within an hour or so, I recommend leaving it overnight to harden. Finish up the piece by rubbing it down gently with some 0000 steel wool. This will knock off the shine and smooth any peels or drips. The final appearance is very attractive.
MusketFinish.jpg
I hope this helps.
Charles Misulia
Veteran Arms, LLC

[LioZac0261]

Wow, that's very interesting. It sounds like there's more than one way of doing it (I mean, other than the period BLO/lacquering method).

So, I take it that paste wax is only semi-permanent? As in, it will need regular re-waxing as opposed to lacquering/BLO?

One reenactor said car wax is another option, and that the wax will run-off the barrel when heated (fired). This is supposedly normal, and won't affect the look or finish.

[maillemaker]

I personally am not a fan of semi-permanent barrier coatings, such as wax (or clearcoat paint, or any other similar barrier coating) for items that will be used/handled regularly. If it is going to be a display item, and put in a case or hung on a wall, that is one thing, but if it is going to be in use, then the problem you will face is ultimately all barriers get broken through use and handling, and then rust/patina starts in those places. Now when you go to clean the item not only do you have to clean the patina but you have to clean off the barrier that was applied, also.

The best thing for such items is after cleaning apply a light coat of oil.

Steve