Williams Clothiers, LLC

[wmclothiers]

Williams Clothiers, LLC specializes in fully bespoke civilian clothing of the 19th century. My goal is to reproduce the finer clothing of the period, down to the smallest detail, using photographs, fashion plates, and original garments for research. We’ll first have a consultation, in which you’ll choose cloth, discuss your requirements and clothing details, and finally take over a dozen measurements to accurately fit your clothing as best as possible. This first consultation can be done in person at your home, at an event, or online if distance is an issue. A unique pattern is drafted, taking into account your measurements and posture. Clients have upwards of seven fittings for a frock coat, and an average of three for other types of garments. I document each step of the way and give updates to each client frequently, for their own edification and enjoyment. Clients love seeing the process of how a coat comes together. The completed garment is mailed to the location of your choosing or in person, where it is looked over one final time for any small issues.



I choose to approach a project mainly from the tailoring point of view. I look for the most well made garments of the period, and reproduce them to a level rarely seen today. Studying tailoring manuals from the period to the present day has given me an insightful look into how garments were constructed during the 1860s.



For more information on my bespoke garments, please check out my website at www.williamsclothiers.com.

Workshops

Besides tailoring, I love to teach people. Outside of the tailoring and reenacting world, I teach both fife and drum to a number of students. As I became more confident in my tailoring abilities, I realized I would like to help others further their tailoring education, and save them the years of research I had put in. The idea of holding tailoring workshops was born. At first I thought about the traditional workshop, but given the amount of detail I need to get across, that was unfeasible. We would be there for at least a week and the cost would be extremely high. Combining the thought of workshops with the digital age, I realized that workshops could be held online, and my workshop series was born.

First off was an Enlisted Frock Coat workshop, which was several years in the making. The outline and rough draft were started in 2009, and by late 2011, I finally had the courage to hit the publish button. This workshop will walk you through each step required in making an enlisted frock coat, from measurements, drafting, and fitting, to constructing the interior pleat pockets, quilting the lining, and getting that tricky piping on the collar and cuffs just right. Signing up for this workshop will get you 195 pages of detailed instruction, fully photographed, and several more pages of spreadsheets, lists of supplies, and graduated rulers. Here is a video showing a small snippet of what you will learn in this workshop.



With the success of my first workshop, I began work on a new workshop on creating a double breasted civilian frock coat of the period. This type of coat is regarded as the pinnacle of tailoring, with perhaps only the dress coat exceeding it. This workshop is still in progress, currently 3/4 of the way complete, at over 200 pages. I underestimated the amount of content necessary to fully explain everything, but the results should be worth the wait.



I realized that both of these workshops are fairly advanced tailoring, and decided it was time for something a little easier. Hence the idea for my latest workshop, opening on June 11, 2012 – constructing a Summer Frock Coat. In many ways, this is easier than constructing a fully lined frock coat. For one, there is no quilting or canvas, something that takes a lot of time and skill to get just right. An apprentice tailor can concentrate more on getting the fit of the coat just right, and then finish the coat without too much issue – just time.

I emphasize getting the correct fit of the coat before students begin work on their garments. By posting photographs in my support forum, or emailing to me, I can suggest corrections for them, which has seemed to work well so far.

For more information about my workshops, please see my dedicated workshop site.

Thank you,
James Williams

[wmclothiers]

Beginning at 12:00 pm today, I am running a 24 hour sale. All of my workshops will be 50% off for that time only. I also would like to announce my newest online workshop, and will take preorders on my website now. It officially opens on June 11.

If you have done any reenacting before, you know how hot those summer days can be. Wearing those wool coats can make things unbearable. However, there is a period solution! Many coats were made out of linen or cotton, allowing one to keep cool even during the heat of summer. Unlined for the most part, a good summer frock coat will both look good and help with the temperature control. As far as I know, there are no patterns available for summer frocks, and less than ideal instructions. To make these accessible to more of you, I am running an online workshop on constructing a summer frock coat, starting June 11, 2012.



This is a twelve week course, designed with the intermediate tailor in mind. The first half of the course deals entirely with getting a proper fit to your coat, beginning with complete drafting instructions. I’ll be available to answer any questions you have along the way, and help you achieve that period fit. The second half of the course begins with an overview of the stitches used, and construction of the coat itself.

The nature of the construction process of this type of frock coat naturally lends itself to the more intermediately-skilled tailor. Being unlined simplifies the construction process a great deal. In it’s place you must finish all of the seams by hand, but that’s more of a time consuming process than one of great difficulty.

Another benefit of a summer frock coat is that the materials are substantially lower in cost. For roughly $50 to $100, you can obtain all of the necessary materials, as opposed to hundreds more for a wool broadcloth frock coat.



After completion of the course, you will have a frock coat pattern fitted exactly to your custom measurements, and a completed coat to wear for the rest of the summer months. Your pattern can be used for any other frock coat style, including for my double breasted frock coat workshop, with a few adjustments.

There are several options for styling, regarding fullness of the skirts, lapel and collar shape, depth of the roll line, and more — all will be explained to you during the process.



I encourage you to sign up today, and get started! As always, this is an online course, meaning there are no time constraints for you. Feel free to take as long as necessary in order to finish your coat. I am willing to answer your questions as they arise at my support forum.

Upon registering, beginning on June 11, you’ll begin receiving new modules weekly. All content is delivered in PDF format via email, for you to download and print as you wish. Pre-Register today!

[wmclothiers]

My appologies to those of you who could not get through to the workshop page. Seems there was a permissions issue. All fixed! Now you can view the summer frock workshop page.

[wmclothiers]

This Friday through Sunday, all of my bespoke tailoring and workshops are on sale for 25%. Hurry now before this offer ends!



In addition, I'd like to announce my latest workshop, on Drafting and Fitting a Frock Coat. This is meant to be an introduction to my other, more advanced workshops, and you will have a chance at the conclusion to upgrade to one of the other workshops.

Would you like to learn how to draft a frock coat, using a period system of the 1860s? In order to save you the many long hours of research and practice that I put in, I am offering an introductory workshop, where you will learn how to draft and fit an 1860s period frock coat. Many of the skills you will learn are not found in any books, but through much experimentation. If you have been using a commercial frock coat pattern in the past, this is a great way to improve on that. You’ll learn how to take measurements, draft the frock coat body, skirts, collars, and sleeves. You will then be taken through the fitting process, learning how to spot errors in your draft and correct them.

At the completion of the workshop, you will have a pattern perfectly fitted to your or a friend’s body, for use in many projects, and be able go through Devere’s manual with a much better understanding of the process.

This is an intermediate level course, and takes seven weeks to complete. You should have some sewing experience with trousers or waistcoats, or women’s dresses. If you can follow simple instructions, you’ll have no problem with taking this course.



Thank you,
Jim

[wmclothiers]

I'm heading to Switzerland next week and need to raise a little more money. Things are expensive there - not so great for me, but awesome for you! I'm extending my Father's Day Sale to 50% off -- but only for the next 10 registrations. Save 50% on any of my workshops. Sales price will be reflected in the shopping cart. Don't miss out on this deal, because I will not be offering it again for quite some time!



Double Breasted Civilian Frock Workshop - $73.50
Federal Enlisted Frock Workshop - $73.50
Summer Linen Frock Workshop - $48.50
Drafting & Fitting a Frock Coat - $13.50

Thank you -
Jim

[wmclothiers]

I need to make room in my closet for the newer clothing I'm making. Please email me at jwilliams@williamsclothiers.com if you wish to purchase. Paypal only.

Thank you,
Jim

Federal Enlisted Trousers

Measurements
Inseam 28" (I can hem these shorter for you, just give me your measurement).
Waist 34"

These were made as a prototype for my fife and drum corps, and never worn. Mainly machine sewn with of hand finishing. Side seam pockets and watch pocket. Back buckle. Flat linend in the seat and waistband with brown polished cotton. Charlie Child's K2 fabric. Original bone buttons.

$165 shipped

[wmclothiers]

While working for myself is great, I almost always find myself working during holidays for some reason, and Labour Day is no exception. In honour of the occasion, I am running a 40% off sale on everything I sell, beginning immediately until Monday, September 3 at Midnight. All workshops are on sale, as well as all of my bespoke garments. Just email me during this time to get the process started. All sales prices are shown on the website.

[wmclothiers]

I'm happy to announce the completion of my double-breasted civilian frock coat. This is a culmination of six years of study and practice, and about 150 of hours of work in the coat itself. The trousers are new, as well.

Here is the front view. You can see the hand-embroidered silk buttons, and the general fit of the coat. I need to do some adjustment to the hem at the bottom of the skirt, for reasons too complicated to go into here.


My Napoleon pose . . . couldn't help myself.


Note how the coat does not move when I lift my arms. This is due to the high cut of the armscye. You'll commonly see both modern suit coats and historical reproductions with deeply cut armscyes, which both limits your movement, and gives an unappealing look in general.
http://williamsclothiers.com/wp-cont...t/img_1902.jpg

The back view shows the fit across the back. The fullness at the back of the armscyes and side-body is due to the period cut of the sleeves. Will need to experiment in the future to see if that area can be improved.


If you are interested in the construction, please see my thread going step-by step through the process.

If you wish to learn in great detail, I've created an online workshop describing every step of the construction process in great detail. At nearly 300 pages long, you won't find this level of instruction anywhere else, short of becoming a tailor's apprentice. On sale now through the end of Labor Day for only $88.