Sewing on Button Minutia

[50th VA Corporal]

Occasionally I run across four hole buttons that instead of being sewn on with the "X" pattern are sewn straight across "I I" vertically or horizontally.

Is it period "wrong" to sew them on with other than the "X" pattern? Are there any surviving examples showng the latter pattern?

Minutia....

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

I've never seen an original garment with anything other than "x" sewn buttons for the 4 hole variety. That isn't to say someone didn't back then, I just haven't seen it on a provenanced period garment.

[50th VA Corporal]

Thanks Ross, I knew you would chime in and set the record straight. I have an otherwise dang nice pair of trousers and it looks like I can now qualify changing out the buttons for some of those new F.A. Hoyt buttons NJS is offering. But I sure hate sewing....

[GreencoatCross]

Two original garments from the Troiani collection have buttons sewn with the parallel lines of stitching; the Alvin Rose contract drawers worn by Lt. Cyrus Batchelder of the 3rd Mass. Cavalry, and the fly buttons in a pair of contract Federal issue trousers worn by Sgt. Roland Truesdale of the 27th New York Infantry. There may be more that I have not seen, and I also recall seeing a pair of SA trousers with the same button stitching but cannot find the photos.

[tdscott]

Shirt #17 in Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America appears to have buttons attached this way. Page 98 shows a close up of the collar button and one placket button.

[brown30741]

From the period garments I have seen and these well documented but rare exceptions, I still feel that the X pattern is my best choice. I have always assumed, and have been told by a few sewers who use modern machines, that the overwhelming prevalence of the I I pattern button stitching in some circles of reproduction clothing was due to the button stitching tool on some modern machines. Also keep in mind that some antique buttons that post date our era have channels cut for the I I stitching. I have seen otherwise ACW era bone trowser buttons with just such channels.

[Carolann Schmitt]

My research is focused on mid-19th century civilian clothing. I own or have examined extant garments with 4-hole buttons attached in the following patterns, from most common to least common: X, parallel lines, L, and L with a diagonal line to the third hole.

Regards,
Carolann

[reb64]

25 years into this and it still amazes me, the little things.

[mmescher]

I agree that it is interesting the detail that people will consider. What I find interesting as well is how some people will research an item of interest down to the smallest detail but their comprehensive impression has holes you could drive a supply wagon through. The biggest bloopers are in elements that some soldiers consider "civilian", forgetting that they were probably civilians before the war.

Applause for equal levels of detail in all aspects.