Not sure where I got the below info, but it's likely in the quartermaster regulations. This is the "shirt on a square" method, not the french cut shirt. You can find basic instruction about the "shirt on a square" in "The Workwomens Guide" found in google books.
The below text is from the original source, and the numbers denote completed measurements for the shirt. The numbers inside the parens are the completed size plus seam allowances. This is what I've used for the two issue shirts I've made. For non issue shirts, I use a french cut pattern taken from the book, "Thoughts on Men's Shirts."
The issue shirt required 2 7/8 yards of white cotton and wool domet flannel, 3 shirt buttons of white metal, and 3 1/2 skeins of W.B. linen thread, No. 35. All seams were to be [flat] felled. The major measurements included : length of shirt 34" (34x2 + 1.0 + 1.0 = 70), of sleeve 21" ( 21" + 1.0 + 0.5 = 22.5) and of collar 16"-17" (16 or 17 + 0.5 + 0.5 = 17 or 18, but x2 of flannel plus x1 of drill); width of shirt 26" (26 + 1.0 + 1.0 = 28 ), of sleeve at top 20" (10x2 + 1.0 + 1.0 = 22), of sleeve at cuff 10" (5x2 + 1.0 + 1.0 = 12) and of collar 3 1/2", (3.5 + 1.0 + 0.5 + 5), length of slit in sleeve at wrist 5", at bottom of shirt 9", and in breast 12"; length and width of shoulder straps 9" by 3" (9 + 0.5 + 0.5 = 10 by 3.0 + 0.5 + 0.5 = 4) and of underarm gussets 5" by 3". (5.0 + 0.5 + 0.5 = 6 by 4.0 + 0.5 + 0.5 = 5)
Silas Tackitt
"While the original battle [Gettysburg] may arguably be considered the epicenter of the history of the war, the GAC reenactment is not the epicenter of the hobby. To confuse or equate the two is unfortunate. - Bernard Biederman, 6 July 2012
"Authenticity conflicts occur when reenactors from one end of the spectrum attend events at the other end of the spectrum then try to impose their own standards instead of event standards."
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