A Double Breasted Frock Coat

[wmclothiers]

I recently began construction on a civilian double breasted frock coat, and thought there might be some interest in seeing all of the work that goes into one. For myself, I'm estimating about 100 hours, but for a beginner, it could easily be 200 or more hours for such a coat.

If you have any questions, please ask away.

James Williams

I drafted the pattern from Devere's 1866 guide according to my exact measurements.

Muslin fitting, front view. The lapels are just in place by hand to see what looks best. Need to let out the front a tiny bit, unfortunately.

I love the back view. The skirt, which I cut a little fuller than usual, drapes almost perfectly.

Notice how the armscye comes right up to the bottom of the arm. This was the practice back then, and is still used on higher end coats today.

[AP Hill]

Nice !

Phil Oliver

[LibertyHallVols]

I would agree with those time estimates, and (for me, anyway) that wouldn't include the time to draft the pattern, make a muslin, etc. The time spent getting the fitting right certainly pays off, as shown in your pics!

[wmclothiers]

Thanks! Yes, I'm not counting the drafting and fitting time because I've been working on perfecting the pattern over several months already.

[sodapop63]

Amazing work! I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of my sack coat and two shirts I have on order with you...your quality of work is well represented in these pictures, sir.


Scott Brown
Company M 1st MO Light Artillery
VP South Central MO Civil War Round Table
Chaplain, SUVCW Sigel Camp #614
Member CWPT

[wmclothiers]

I need to shorten the back about 1/2 an inch. Also note the bias shoulder seams.

Front view with arms raised to show how there is almost no movement of the coat. Try that with yours and see if the results are the same. A close fitting armscye gives much more mobility, contrary to what most people think.

I'll be using this custom dyed Hainsworth doeskin. The wool alone cost almost $300.

The pieces laid out on the cutting table, ready for the shears.

[wmclothiers]

Forepart and cut on lapel, showing inlays and roll line.

Side-body inlays.

Triangular skirt piece, cut on to save fabric.

Closeup showing the inlays for the back. Inlays are used for fitting adjustments, and are especially important when working with an old drafting system like Devere's.

[Spinster]

Okay, I'm going to cover my eyes now.

The really scary part is cutting into wool of that quality. Sister and I used to draw and draw, going around and around the table. Then we'd flip a coin to see who had to cut. Either way, I lost. If I lost the coin toss, I had to cut. If I won the coin toss, Sister cried and decided it was nap time, and I still had to cut.

But then, she could look at a person and draw a pattern, so it was a good exchange of labor.

[wmclothiers]

I've had the fabric for two years waiting to be cut because I didn't feel ready! It was probably a good idea because I've learned so much during that time. Even just this weekend I made a new discovery regarding the lapel dart which would have ruined the coat otherwise. The good news is everything worked out.

[rbruno68]

Jim,
Is that the Hainesworth fabric we went in on a couple years ago? I still have my part as well because I am still perfecting a couple patterns before I cut. It is great stuff isn't. I have plenty in case you ever look for more. I like how the mock up fits along the back. I have a hard time with the small of the back area. Mine want to pull away in that area. I made a few adjustments to the next coat and it seems to help in that area. Can't wait to see it go together.
Rob