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Thread: Tar a Haversack?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    23

    Default Tar a Haversack?

    Need to do some repairs, want to repaint or tar the patched areas,
    what do I use?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    521

    Default

    Black latex paint. Put thin coats on. Semi gloss.

    The period recipe is dangerous as heck for food containing items.
    Galen Wagner
    Yellowhammer Rifles
    Oak Park # 864 F&AM
    Montgomery, AL

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lake City, FL
    Posts
    152

    Default Repairs

    Quote Originally Posted by kderren View Post
    Need to do some repairs, want to repaint or tar the patched areas,
    what do I use?
    If you have a few weeks for it to dry, I have had good luck mixing up a simple batch of linseed oil, japan drier, and some lampblack. It looks great, smells like it should, and is quite cheap. I have also used the semigloss latex paint method and it is an easy fix. Just don't mess up and use gloss paint. It will crack badly if you do. Are you trying to paint over an area that was torn? If so, would a field repair have been painted over? Just curious. I can appreciate trying to save money and stretch your gear out for as long as you can, but how noticeable is the repair going to be? If you happen to be coming to the Olustee event this weekend, I can bring you a small bottle of the linseed paint to try. Just let me know. Good luck.
    Last edited by Rachal; 02-10-2010 at 03:38 PM.
    Thomas N. Rachal
    SCAR / Salt River Rifles

  4. #4

    Default

    Hallo!

    "Oilcloth and Painted Accouterments
    by Jack Cox

    “Painting” was a 1800’s method of waterproofing cloth for such items as knapsacks, haversacks, belts, cartridge boxes and ground cloths. Properly done, the fabric does become very waterproof, but retains its flexibility.
    There are many different recipes for both "period accurate" oilcloth and for a modern version that looks the same, but without some of the problems of the 1850's recipe. The paint is generally applied over cotton drill or linen canvas.
    The instructions below discuss the making of ground cloths, but the same procedure applies to all painted goods.

    Modern Recipe:
    While this recipe is obviously not authentic, it produces the same look and feel as the original methods. The final product looks, feels and wears as close to the original as most of us can approximate today. However, you need to make a decision as to whether you want to "fake it" with a modern approximation when a good period recipe is available.
    Materials: Wallpaper sizing. Get it pre-mixed and ready to use. Flat black or semi-gloss interior latex paint *** Boiled linseed oil Mineral spirits paint thinner Japan dryer
    (All of these materials are available at any good paint store)
    Method:
    1. Using a roller, paint both sides of the cloth with the wallpaper sizing and let it dry. It should take an hour or less. The sizing will prevent the paint from soaking the cloth, and it will give it some "tooth" for paint adhesion.
    2. Using a roller, paint one side of the cloth with the black latex paint. Let it dry overnight.
    3. Mix 2 parts of mineral spirits with 1 part boiled linseed oil. Add Japan dryer. Use 1 oz. (2 tablespoons) per pint of paint.
    4. With a brush, paint the sized side of the cloth with the linseed oil mix. Let it dry. This may take several days, depending on temperature and humidity. It's NOT wise to let it dry in the house.
    5. Paint on two additional coats of the linseed oil mix. Let it dry between coats.
    *** There is a variation of this recipe that works very well also. Instead of using plain latex paint, mix 2 parts of latex paint with one part of boiled linseed oil. Stir it thoroughly, then follow the instructions above.


    Period Recipe:
    This recipe is an approximation, since the original recipe specified "litharge," or lead monoxide (PbO) which is extremely poisonous.
    Bright Idea: Leave out the lampblack, and you have a recipe for a nice civilian waterproof cloth.
    I strongly recommend this recipe because it is about as authentic as you can get without putting life and limb in danger.
    Materials: Boiled linseed oil Mineral spirits paint thinner (or turpentine) Lampblack (comes in tubes or dry powder) Japan dryer Corn starch
    Method:
    1. Make a sizing by boiling about a quart of water and adding cornstarch mixed in cold water until the mixture becomes a little syrupy.
    2. Paint the cloth with the cornstarch sizing and let dry.
    3. Mix one part of boiled linseed oil with one part of mineral spirits. Add lamp black until the paint is a very opaque black. Add one oz. (2 tbsp) of Japan dryer per pint.
    4. With a brush, paint the cloth with the blackened linseed oil and let dry. This can take several days.
    5. Mix one part of boiled linseed oil with two parts of mineral spirits. Add one oz. of Japan dryer per pint.
    6. With a brush, paint the cloth with the clear linseed oil mixture and let it dry. This can also take several days. Two coats of this mixture should give the results you want.
    (You can omit the cornstarch sizing if you want, but the oil-based paint will pretty much soak the cloth.)

    Confederate Ordnance Manual Recipe:
    There is a recipe from the 1863 Confederate Ordinance manual which I have not tried. Use at your own risk.
    Materials: 28 Parts lampblack 1 Part Japan varnish 73 Parts boiled Linseed oil 1 Part spirits of turpentine 1 Part litharge (substitute Japan Dryer for this.
    Litharge is lead monoxide, and is very poisonous.)
    Method:
    1. Mix the ingredients, using 1 oz. (2 tbsp) of Japan dryer per quart of paint.
    2. If you don't want the paint to totally soak the cloth, size it with cornstarch as in the period recipe above.
    3. Apply 2-3 coats until the desired sheen is obtained.
    Turpentine-base Recipe
    This recipe comes from "Young's Demonstrative Translation of Scientific Secrets - 1861." This recipe will sound familiar in materials and proportion, but uses turpentine instead of mineral spirits for a thinner. Hazard Warning: The recipe uses litharge*** (poison hazard) and the mixture is boiled (fire hazard).

    I DO NOT RECOMMEND OR ENDORSE USING THIS RECIPE.
    Materials: 1 pint of spirits of turpentine 1 to 1 1/2 pints of linseed oil 1 lb litharge
    Method:
    1. Combine all materials in a large metal bucket. Litharge reacts strongly to aluminum and zinc. Do not use an aluminum or zinc coated vessel.
    2. Boil and stir until thoroughly mixed and dissolved.
    3. Paint on the cloth.
    4. Let dry in the sun.
    This recipe will give a clear to reddish or yellowish color, depending upon the base color of the litharge. The first coats could be tinted with lamp black to make a glossy painted oilcloth.
    *** Safety data (MSDS) for litharge."

    CHS
    In gleichem Schritt und Tritt, Curt Schmidt

    Not a real Civil War reenactor, I only portray one on boards and fora.
    I do not portray a Civil War soldier, I merely interpret one.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    965

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kderren View Post
    Need to do some repairs, want to repaint or tar the patched areas,
    what do I use?
    Do I understand that you have placed a patch on the existing bag and now want to paint it?

    If so, explain how you think a CW soldier would have accomplished the same. Or why he would bother?

    He would draw a new one or patch the old one until a new one could be obtained. I doubt he would paint it to match.

    Considering you can buy a new one from Missouri Boot and Shoe for $32 (free shipping even!), why put yourself through this trouble?
    Mint Julep

    A Proud 5%'er

    A Dead Whale or A Stove Boat!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Lake City, FL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    That's the point that I was trying to get at. I guess that I am too diplomatic. Thanks Julep.
    Thomas N. Rachal
    SCAR / Salt River Rifles

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Fleming County, KY.
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Question:

    MSBS does not use BLO in thier recipe. Is what they use just black latex paint or some formula?
    Christopher Helvey


    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Near Hanover, PA
    Posts
    961

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by gwagner View Post
    The period recipe is dangerous as heck for food containing items.

    Please site your sources for this statement. Or, is this something someone "told" you? 100's of reenactors carry food in properly constructed as per 1860's standards haversacks and knapsacks and, I have NEVER herd of such a thing. EVER. I guess ergo, carrying your clothing in a properly constructed knapsack or sleeping on a properly constructed "tarred" or "oiled" cloth will make you glow? My word.



    Friend, if you're looking for a "period" receipt for "tarring" material, use the search feature on the site, type "tarred cloth." Within you'll find something quite handy and, it won't kill you.

    On the other hand. A soldier wouldn't have the means to re-tarr his equippage. He'd either tell his Orderly Sergeant at muster that he needed an new one issued or, he'd make a field repair and use the haversack he had. Understandably, with the cost of our reproduction items, I can't blame you for wanting to take care of your stuff. Good luck!
    Eli Heagy
    187th PV

    Tá cuid de na moderators ar an bhfóram AC cheapann a fhios acu níos mó agus go bhfuil with ná gach duine eile. Buille faoi thuairim a, níl folks amuigh ansin a dhéanamh ar bhealach níos mó taighde ansin beidh siad a dhéanamh riamh. Ní Dhá rud a cheadaítear ar an bhfóram AC; tuiscint coiteann agus eolas coiteann.

    http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6050/marktwainv.jpg

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    159

    Default

    I used a period recipie for a ration bag once....I got killed of course


    Just do what has already been suggested and just patch it.
    Last edited by Julius; 02-11-2010 at 09:27 AM.
    Russ Stanley.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Tuskaloosa, Alabama
    Posts
    3,891

    Default

    I'll be much more likely to die from the overcomsumption of salty porcuine goodness than from the delightful little tarred sacks I transport it in.
    Mrs. Lawson
    Weaver, Spinster, Strong Fast Dyes
    Knitted Goods and yarns available thlawson@bellsouth.net



    Moderator, When I remember. We got Rules here!



    http://www.bluegraygettysburg.com/

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