View Full Version : Enfield Spring?

04-15-2006, 02:16 PM
Gentlemen, i was working on my gun, and realized that if i pull hard enough at half cock, it fires. Its an Armi Sport 1853 Enfield. Someone told me its the shear spring i think? does anyone know where i can buy a replacement spring?

Alex Belhumeur

Jim Mayo
04-15-2006, 02:46 PM
With todays poor quality locks it is not hard to damage them by pulling the trigger with excessive force while on half *ock. Best advice is not to do it. It could be the sear or the tumbler. See the site below.


I would call the folks below and describe what you did and what the action is doing now. If you have never taken a lock apart you could send it to them for repair.


04-15-2006, 03:10 PM
I had the same problem at first.

From Mr. Lodgewood:

"The Enfield is noted for misbehaving if the sear screw is either too tight (when it will catch in 1/2 c*ck since the sear drags) or too loose (when it will fire in 1/2 c*ck). The lockplate screws also can be over-tightened and the internals will bind against the stock. It could also have a weak sear spring. We recommend using a good thin machine oil on the screws once the action is working correctly. This reduces the friction between the parts and the screws and they stay put better without creeping every time the hammer is cocked."

Oftentimes the tumbler will bind on the wood, which acts as a "brake", slowing down the tumbler when firing, and giving the sear enough time to drop into the half-c*ck notch. I have used a very sharp 1/2" chisel to shave off some of the wood surrounding the tumbler, but this must be done very carefully. Once the wood is gone, you cannot put it back! (And, don't remove any wood from the "ledge" which the plate sits on. You will make the problem worse.)

When tightening the lockplate screws, try to push the lock from side to side with your fingertips on the plate and your thumb on the lockplate screw head. As soon as this side-to-side movement can no longer be detected, the lockplate is tight enough. You may be tempted to crank down on these screws until they absolutely cannot move, but it will be too far.

I take my lock apart at least three of four times a year to check for rust, especially after having the piece out in the rain. All parts are polished with a brass-bristled brush and given a thin (very thin) coat of oil. Put a drop of oil on your fingertip, and then smear it around. I then put a tiny drop of LocTite (blue) on the screw threads, crank them down tight, and then back them off until all parts move freely. I also replaced the sear spring and mainspring with much heavier ones.

(Damned filters...)

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
04-15-2006, 05:49 PM

Just to add...

The tumbler can bind, if the bridle scr#ws are too snug, preventing the tumbler from rotating smoothing away from the sear nose- or too loose causing slippage.

Another causal factor in what can be a domino-effect at times, is the shape of the sear nose and the shape and depth of the half-c#ck notch on the tumbler. For the optimum functioning of the half-c#k feature, the sear nose and the tumbler half-c#ck notch need to be properly shaped so that the sear nose is not pulled from the notch with moderate pressure.
As already shared, if the sear spring is too weak, or the spring and/or the sear binds, there can be problems with the half-c#ck holding or slipping.
Another problem can occur when the sear nose is hardened "harder" than the tumbler. Excessive pressure on the trigger can actually cuase the sear to cut or "shave" off the tumbler notch back giving the sear nose nothing to slip into and hold.

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt