Making Period Correct/More Authentic/Defarbing (whatever) SPECIFICS

[Jas. Cox]

Before anyone says "Do a search for defarb" I already have. A LOT of responses come up and many are just arguments. I clicked this link (http://www.cwreenactors.com/forum/se...searchid=70039) to FAQ I read in one of the threads and it took me to "Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms." I did a search in FAQ and got the same response. This particular question may have been covered in detail in some thread and if someone wants to link me to it, that would be great. I'm not being lazy here.

That being said, here is my question. Various threads say remove the manufacture name, black powder only, etc. that is stamped into the metal. Yet I saw nowhere how to specifically do that. I like to know how to do it myself (not send it off to someone ~ repeat, not wanting links to people who will do that for me). So, how is this done without screwing up the barrel, or knife, or sword, or anything that is metal that has something stamped on it? Does not grinding weaken the metal in that area allowing for the barrel to explode? I would think filling in the stamp somehow and then sanding it down would be a preferred method, but I don't know. Again, I have only read remove this, replace that, but haven't read specifics how to do it.:confused:

This question void in New Jersey and Canada. And if it were a contest, it would be void in Rhode Island.;-)

[Frenchie]

Filing and polishing will remove stampings without making the steel too thin. Original barrels were thinner than those on modern repros and modern steels are much better. You'd have to remove a lot of steel, far more than you need to get rid of the stampings, to even begin making it unsafe.

Plus, blank rounds produce a small fraction of the pressure that live shooting does; you could replace your musket barrel with a length of electrical conduit and shoot 100 grain blank charges all day and never come near the conduit's pressure limit.

Problem with filing and polishing is, it's easy to overdo it, and then you have to blend the ground-away area into the rest of the metal. That's where the tools and expertise of a professional metalsmith come into play.

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

Avoiding all the opinions about doing so, and likely giving just enough information for someone to take on-line advice and screw up their gun, etc., etc.... ;-) :-)

In brief and to over-generalize...

The common way is judiciously, cautiously, carefully remove the height of the surrounding metal until it is reduced to the point that the stamping is no longer there.
This is typically done by draw-filing with files, and then repolishing back to smooth shine with progressive grit sanding papers, emory cloth, and or buffing compound on buffing wheels. (Some lads use sanding disks on electric drills...)
Since "stamping" displaces metal when struck, some lads take a hammer or other tool and try to "upset" some of the displaced metal back into the "hole" that is the stamped impression before filing and/or sanding.

A key to a quality result is to follow the surface of the item being filed or sanded so as not to file or sand flats say on a round barrel. And to work on a slightly larger area to "blend and flow' the area so it does not have flats.

And yes...

Since the stamped impression is removed by removing surrounding metal, the area is somewhat "weakened." If we are talking about the breech end of the barrel, removing metal does weaken it. HOWEVER, stampings are generally very shallow and Italian breeches very thick, and the breech pressures from black powder blanks and even blackpowder service loads with live ammo is not a significant hazardous safety factor.

Others' mileage, and skills with tools and the results they achieve, will vary...

Curt-Heinrich Schmidt

[Memphis]

Didn't Craig Barry just publish a book on this very subject?

[1stTexas]

I bought a new defarbed Armi Sport Confederate P.53 Enfield rifle and bayonet with a blued socket, authentic CSA issue canvas sling, English made 6-link chain, cast iron and leather nipple protector, Enfield bayonet scabbard and frog for $850. You furnish the rifle.... $350.

The correct stamps include the Crown and Tower 1862 stamp on the lock, anchor JS (CSA inspector stamp) on the stock, C. Swinburn contract makers stamp on the stock, Burmingham Small Arms Trade cartouce on the butt, blockade runner rack number on the butt plate and ramrod, .577 caliber code stamp on the barrel and the Armi Sport serial number moved to a location out of sight under the barrel.

Man, I would not buy a rifle and attempt do all that even if I could get all the correct stamps. Some things are better left to the professionals.

[toptimlrd]

To support what others have said, it is really not a good do it yourself project unless you are familiar with metalworking in this fashion. The odds are that the first time you do it you will end up doing more harm than good. Plus you will need to buy or manufacture the stamps necessary to put the correct marks on the weapon. To be honest, by the time you are done it would probably have been cheaper in the long run to let a pro do it for you.

[major]

Jas. Cox
If you really want to defarb your own musket then you will need a few tools. First is an industrial size buffer with 3/8 shaft ($350). Then you need some cotton wheels ($50). Extra fine grinding compound and some rouge to put on the wheels ($70). A Dremel tool and some bits for the wood where the lock plate screw washers go. ($75) Oh, and you will need a band saw to cut out the square eared washers from sheet brass ($100) and a drill press to drill the holes and the recess in the washers ($100). You will need a surface grinder to flatten out the heads of the screws and bolts ($2500). Now you need the proper stamps to put on the barrel and the wood ($1500). You will need an engraving tool to put the proper markings on the lock plate ($500). I don’t know what a set of bluing tanks costs but because the musket barrel is so long I expect you are looking at an investment of about $3000 for a basic set up. You will need a place to put all this machinery so figure on building a pole barn in the back yard ($5000). I probably missed some tools so figure another $1000 for the incidentals.
Yep, this is definitely a do-it-yourself project. Or you could fork out about $150 to a pro and get it done.
Terry

[bob 125th nysvi]

having spent the weekend serving with Terry he knows that of which he speaks when it comes to metal working, guns and the way to blend both together to field a nice CW firearm.

Umm but Terry you did leave out the plans and dimensions to reshape the stock and take about 3/4 of a pound wood off the sucker. And then of course the materials and man hours to refinish it.