PDA

View Full Version : cleaning a 1855


Sharps_user84
02-14-2007, 01:27 AM
I have been off the field for a few years (joined the air force) and recently found a unit so im back on the field. I only owned enfields so springfields are new to me. When the 1855 came to my door i noticed a little rust starting to form on the barrel, any way to prevent this? I remember seeing springfields back in the day just after one humid night would be a rust bucket. I could wipe it down with oil all the time but i was hoping for something alot easier, maybe a clear coat or something on the barrel?
Jason D
USAF

tompritchett
02-14-2007, 06:12 AM
Given how hot the barrels can get when firing, I would not recommend any type of modern clear coat as they would tend to oxidize (turn brown) over time under those conditions. The best recommendation that I would give you is take a rag and coat it with a heavy wax/natural oil combination (I use a beeswax/oil mixture), carry the rag in your haversack, and then use it to wipe down the outside of your barrel after cleaning or firing if you are not cleaning. I would also wipe it down at night if you have been using all day without firing. Have been using this approach with my Richmond for several years now and I only occasionally get small rust spots that I can quickly deal with when I get home.

rebelyell62
02-16-2007, 09:04 AM
I have been off the field for a few years (joined the air force) and recently found a unit so im back on the field. I only owned enfields so springfields are new to me. When the 1855 came to my door i noticed a little rust starting to form on the barrel, any way to prevent this? I remember seeing springfields back in the day just after one humid night would be a rust bucket. I could wipe it down with oil all the time but i was hoping for something alot easier, maybe a clear coat or something on the barrel?
Jason D
USAF
I have known folks who have used boiled linseed oil on their metal parts, barrels/butt plates etc. I WOULD NOT recommend using it on locks, or trigger assemblies.
Keep in mind ,linseed oil takes a while to dry between coats, and should be reapplied every now and again.
With that said, it is a time proven rust preventative.

Wendell

Bailey Bennett & Scott
02-17-2007, 11:20 AM
Linseed oil also turns green over time. Tom had a good recommendation. A little beeswax goes a long way.

Parault
02-17-2007, 12:13 PM
Tom, thanks for the information on cleaning the Springfields. I have been doing this for several years,however, I bought an Einfield right from the start.
Just this past year I wanted to improve my Federal impression,so I bought a Springfield. I have never worried about rust in large amounts till now. I have not taken this rifle in the field yet, because I haven't done a Federal impression since I bought the rifle. As one 3rd Ark soldier to another, I would like to know what kind of "natural oil" are you talking about? Where can you get the beeswax? How the beeswax comes supplied? O.....I almost forgot where can I purchase these items. I had a good friend of mine looking at my Einfield on day and told me I needed to work on restoring the color inthe stock. He told me about Tru oil. I used it,and it restored the look to my rifle. I wouldn't not recomend using this alot. I have used this only one time and it was when I did that "complete once a year full break down cleaning." I applied a very very light coat and let it dry. It looked good. This might not be the recommended way,however, it works for me.

Parault
02-17-2007, 01:16 PM
I know that you can get beeswax from sutlers but can you by it anywhere else that is a modern mercentile?

CivilWarBuff1863
02-17-2007, 01:32 PM
What about those bee keepers? They have loads of beeswax!!!

rebelyell62
02-17-2007, 02:02 PM
Linseed oil also turns green over time. Tom had a good recommendation. A little beeswax goes a long way.

I have used Linseed oil on several guns with no ill effect, several are over ten years old. I believe you may be thinking of Chromium Trioxide or aqua fortis ? They are very old natural stains used for hundreds of years. There are several examples of "Golden Age" rifles which have turned green over the years due to the chemicals used to finish the wood.

There are certainly better alternatives to B.L.O. in regards to rust preventitives, but it is one option.
Wendell

tompritchett
02-18-2007, 12:36 AM
I would like to know what kind of "natural oil" are you talking about? Where can you get the beeswax?

The product that I was using was a Kiwi Campdry Beeswax Waterproofer, which was a Beeswax, lanolin oil mix. Was having trouble finding it but Charles Reynolds posted last month that you could find it at Amazon.com. Based upon that information, I was able to track a source of it to the following link:
http://www.nmia.com/~bohemond/Bootshop/shared-html/care-products.htm

Parault
02-18-2007, 06:39 PM
The product that I was using was a Kiwi Campdry Beeswax Waterproofer, which was a Beeswax, lanolin oil mix. Was having trouble finding it but Charles Reynolds posted last month that you could find it at Amazon.com. Based upon that information, I was able to track a source of it to the following link:
http://www.nmia.com/~bohemond/Bootshop/shared-html/care-products.htm
Thank you Tom for providing me this information.

Memphis
02-18-2007, 06:59 PM
I know that you can get beeswax from sutlers but can you by it anywhere else that is a modern mercentile?

Any fabric store will have small plugs of beeswax in the notions section, and you may find a copy of this commonly reprinted War Department manual to be handy:

"Rules for the Management and Cleaning of the Rifle Musket, Model 1855 for the Use of Soldiers, by E.S.Alllen, Master Armorer, with descriptive plates. Washington: Government Printing Office (1862); 31 pages, 57 illus."

Army30th
02-18-2007, 07:26 PM
Michael's Craft store as well as A.C. Moore Arts and Crafts has blocks of beeswax for use in candle making, but I suppose you could use it for the purpose you need.

Busterbuttonboy
02-18-2007, 08:04 PM
Dearest Sirs
My suggestion would be to clean the peice before and after each action. A light patina while setting is quite fine. Would not recommend putting anything, like wax or paint, etc on it. (they couldnt...)
Cant image getting those out of a lock or clean out screw. Light dap of oil before it goes into the sock.
Most Respectfully
Drew Gruber
14th NJVI- Buttonhat Boys.
3rd Batt USV

coffeeboiler
03-12-2007, 12:39 AM
Jason,
attached is the period guide to maintaining and cleaning the '55, which may interest to you.

http://www.usregulars.com/1855musketHome.htm

mrgrzeskowiak
03-12-2007, 08:59 PM
Hello, I coat my carbine with Clenzoil, It seems to work very well with little rust formation.