correct trouser hem

[Richard Schimenti]

As I continue to upgrade my impression , I am curious as to the proper style of stitch that would have been used in hemming the trousrs for length or would they have just been left "raw" to fray on the bottom.

I know that there are quite a few who sew, and maybe they can give me some advise to pass on to my wife.

[Rob]

Topic number 1753, this forum, posted by Nick Sekala on April 11th, 2004, covered this subject quite nicely.

I saved it on my laptop... it has detailed descriptions of how to stitch, along with many, many illustrations.

Perhaps one of the moderators would like to play with it and try to re-post it? Let me know.

[Dave Myrick]

As I continue to upgrade my impression , I am curious as to the proper style of stitch that would have been used in hemming the trousrs for length or would they have just been left "raw" to fray on the bottom.

I know that there are quite a few who sew, and maybe they can give me some advise to pass on to my wife.

Federal trousers were issued in one of four sizes. The legs were not left raw or unhemmed. A few simple searches on google and you can find the detailes pertaining to the dimensions of the issue sizes as well as some photographs of existing original garments. But in a nut shell, they were cut to length and faced with a vent on the outer seam.

The size dimensions can be found here:
http://www.cjdaley.com/issuesizes.htm

Some excellent photos of a pair of SA Mounted trousers can be found here:
http://www.gallarock.com/GettysburgFedMountedPants.html

Multiple pairs of trousers can be viewed here:
http://www2.inxpress.net/jwedeward/original_trousers.htm

Dave

[westcoastcampaigner]

Richard,

Go with your simple, everyday whip stitch and you should be fine.


Josh Sawyer
Liberty Rifles
Hardtack Society

[brown30741]

Dave and Josh are both correct. Federal trowsers were issued with a very distinct hem. Many others (ie Confederate, civilian, officers, etc) were simply given a rolled hem with a whip stitch to hold it down (like in felling, keep the stitching tight/close enough to last and all pick-up a small amount of the fabric on the front for the best look). If you're legs are particularly short and you want to field alter your Federal trowsers, you can cut off the excess and do a rolled hem.
Also remember, period style and modern style were different. Length is one aspect of that. Also look at period images. How many men seem to roll their trowsers up as cuffs?
Keep it up!
Lindsey
PS: Feel free to email me if you have any further questions on this one.

[Rob]

http://www.cwreenactors.com/~sykes/equipment/LOC_company_tailor.php