Cleaning a Springfield after shooting

[JustinPrince]

I have a question. I'm still building up my kit, but I do have a defarbed EuroArms '61 Springfield. This New Years Day, since everyone else in my town decided to shoot off blanks in their guns or shoot off fireworks held over from the Fourth of July, I decided to squeeze off a few blanks.

This was the first time I have fired it, blank or otherwise. My goodness she was loud with about 50 grains FFg powder.

But now my dilemma. I can't seem to get it completely clean. On the outside after breaking it down I got every spot of residue. But inside.... it is almost clean, but not 100%.

First I poured in hot water, emptied, and repeated several times. Then I ran down two patches with Hoppe's Black powder solvent, using a worm attached to the ramrod. Then with a four piece cleaning rod and a brush, I scrubbed it for about 10 minutes, then more patches, alternating between Ballistol, Hoppe's Black Powder solvent, and dry patches. I would scrub the barrel with patches, with vigourous up and down movements. After about 20 minutes (and never ending gunk and residue), I put a little solvent on a bore swab, and ran it down. A ton more gunk.

After about 10 or 15 minutes, dry patches started coming up clean. So, I applied one with Ballistol, then another with Bore Butter. After that, I oiled the exterior and put it away to get some sleep. Total cleaning took me about 3 hours (from 1 AM to about 4 AM).

The next day I ran down a dry patch.... and more gunk. This time, after another 45 minutes of cleaning I got most of the gunk... but there was always just a tiny bit on a dry patch, and more when I ran down bore butter.

Is this how it is supposed to be? I have used upwards of 30 to 40 patches cleaning the bore, and it seems the next day there is a little bit of "stuff."

Could it be rust? I noticed the day after I shot it off some rust on the ramrod. It came off easily... but how and why did it form?

Thanks for the help. Just wanting to make sure I am doing this correctly. I follow the manuals and stuff I see on the internet to the letter... except that after X amount of time or Y amount of patches, they don't seem to be 100% clean, or the next day there is a small amount of gunk on the patches.

[Ephraim_Zook]

Justin,

An additional thing you'd want to do is remove the cone and/or the cleanout scr e w and backflush the guck out of the ignition chamber. With the bottom end open, fill the barrel with water and let it run out the bottom until it starts to run clean. Running a patch on the rammer down the barrel after you poured in water will give you some water pressure to help in the flushing.

ps -- Cleaning out the "snail" can be a real bugger but it's essential to keep it clean or you'll have misfires plenty later on.

regards

Ron Myzie
Federal Commissary of Subsistence
McDowell 2007

[7thMDYankee]

Justin,

Welcome to army life! And people think soldiers just sit around cleaning their weapons because they are bored...

Is it possible that the brush is too small? Make sure you have one made specifically for the '61 Springfield. Not getting all the residue from the rifling might be the problem.

[harley_davis]

Justin,
Are you using a bore scrapper to get the gunk from the bottom of the barrel? We highly recommend every soldier in our unit has a bore scrapper. Surprising how much residue sits down there. I will also add, Welcome to Army life!!
Respectfully

[Jim Mayo]

If your Springfield was new your problem is the coating of grease that was inside the barrel. What you did when you fired it prior to removing this grease was make a really stickey tar like substance which has coated the interior of the barrel. Water is not going to clean this stuff out.

I suggest performing a cleaning with a patch well saturated with acetone or some other type of degreaser solvent until you get clean patches. I don't know what size your bore brush is but it should be an interfenence fit. If it is not, You may want to get a shot gun bore brush sized for your barrel and use it for the initial cleaning prior to the patches since you will be scrubbing this gunk from the rifling. You may want to plug the cone and pour some acetone down the barrel if there is a lot of this gunk present. Be careful, acetone may take the finish off your Springfield if it runs out of the cone. You could even remove the barrel for this cleaning. Do this until all that gunk is removed and patches come out clean. Remove the cone and inspect the hole opening by holding up to the light to determine if any of that junk found it's way inside. Clean that if necessary. Remove the cleanout screw and clean that area with the solvent and a pipe cleaner or something similar all the way to the breach area. Then clean/remove any traces of the solvent on parts and barrel with Hoppe's.

If you know anyone in the NSSA get them to pick up a one piece .58 cal cleaning rod or order one from a dealer. Get the metal one with pinned handle and not the wood rod. It is much easier to use, cleans the breech area and accepts the bore brush and patches.

Good Luck

[Rob Weaver]

What you probably did is converted the packing grease into a tarlike substance when it mixed with black powder fouling. At this point a continued cleaning with a solvent like acetone is probably a good idea. (I did the same thing once, with similar results.) Most important with a 61 Springfield is to remove the cleanout screw and clean the spark chamber really well. About half your misfires will occur because the spark chamber is fouled. (The other half will be from trying to fire too light a charge.) Keep the cleanout screw functional and it will make the rifle function a lot better. Don't let it rust fast and don't cross-thread it when you put it back in.

[dclarry]

What you probably did is converted the packing grease into a tarlike substance when it mixed with black powder fouling. At this point a continued cleaning with a solvent like acetone is probably a good idea. (I did the same thing once, with similar results.) Most important with a 61 Springfield is to remove the cleanout screw and clean the spark chamber really well. About half your misfires will occur because the spark chamber is fouled. (The other half will be from trying to fire too light a charge.) Keep the cleanout screw functional and it will make the rifle function a lot better. Don't let it rust fast and don't cross-thread it when you put it back in.

I think you hit the nail on the head. Good call. Petroleum-based greases or oils turn to tar when mixed with black powder fouling. You'll need a strong solvent to get it out, acetone or alcohol. I would disassemble the musket and clean the barrel separately to avoid getting the solvent and dissolved mess on the stock, etc.

[JustinPrince]

Thanks guys for all the tips.

I do have a bore scrapper, though not too much fouling down there. At least not to much not removed after I used the bore swab.

I would like to interject I did give it a very thorough cleaning before firing it, with about 3 dozen dry and oily patches, and I finished up by using bore butter. The weapon was clean (or only a very little residue that was somehow missed) before I fired it.

Since there always seemed to be to be a tiny bit of residue even after cleaning (though i couldn't see any with a bore light), is it possible that some grease remained and that is what my problem is?

As to the bore brush.... I have a .58 cal bore brush, but I'm not sure if it is "specifically" for the Springfield. Any good reccommendations?

I have a four piece cleaning rod that takes a bore brush, jags, and bore swab, but for patches I usually just use a worm on the Springfield's ramrod.

[Jim Mayo]

.58 cleaning brush should do the trick.

A one piece, .58 cleaning rod is better for running patches in the barrel than the worm. The cleaning rod is sized so when you lay the moistened patch over the barrel muzzle and push it down with the cleaning rod, the patch is pressed between the rod and the barrel wall. It is a somewhat tight fit but if all works as planned, when you pull the cleaning rod out, the patch comes with it and the sides of the barrel are cleaner. It is always nice to have the worm handy in the event that everything does not go as planned and the patch remains at the bottom of the barrel. In a new barrel this seldom happens.

You must use patches moistened with cleaner, oil or water since it is a tight fit to keep the patch in contact with the wall for proper cleaning and lubrication is required. A dry or oversized patch will get stuck along with the rod. As it is now, the worm is not putting enough patch pressure on the inside of the barrel to enable the patch to wipe the barrel clean.

If you want I can send some pictures of a rod and how it is used.

[Rob]

Some other possiblities for cleaning come to mind here:

To scrub, try a 12-gauge shotgun brush. This will dig a lot of fouling from the grooves.

To wipe, wrap a patch or two around a .58 caliber bore brush. Wrap it around the "nose" of the brush so that it doesn't slide off.

For fouling at the beech plug, wad a patch up into a ball and ram it down using the scraper on the end of the ramrod. Twist the ramrod around in a full circle (while using downward pressure) to get all of the gunk. Then do the same with the worm on the rammer. The worm will hook onto the patch, which you then pull out of the barrel.

[CapitolGuards]

From Maj Calhoun Benham's A System for Musketry Instruction, issued in Cleburne's Division, Hardee's Corps, Army of Tennessee in the summer of 1863:

________________
THIRD LESSON.
INSTRUCTIONS TO CLEAN THE LOCK AND RIFLE, AND TO KEEP THEM IN PROPER ORDER.

1. When the lock is dismounted, wipe the several limbs, first with an oiled rag, and afterwards with a rag quite dry.

2. If any specks of rust are seen, either on the lock (more particularly the tumbler axle hole) or any of the limbs, they are to be removed with an oiled rag. No brick dust, or powder of any kind, is to be used for this purpose, as such would have the effect of removing the case-hardening from those parts that are not steel, and thus render them much more liable to rust.

3. In remounting the lock, the threads of the several pins, as also the pivot and axle of the tumbler, and pivots of the swivel, should be oiled before putting them in their respective places, in order that they may work easily.

4. The other frictional parts of the lock, to which it essential to apply oil, (which should be animal and not vegetable,) are the nose of the sear, and between the sear and sear spring. Only a very small quantity of oil should be used, as too much is likely to clog the parts.

RIFLE
5. Place the rifle at full c ock, and draw the ram-rod.

6. Put a piece of rag, woolen, if possible, or tow, into the gag (note: the wiper, or "worm" as we often call it) and twist it around so as to cover it.

7. Hold the rifle in the left hand at the full extent of the arm, barrel downwards, with the forefinger and thumb in line with and around the muzzle, heel of the butt resting on the ground to the rear.

8. Pour about a quarter of a pint of water into the barrel with care, so as to prevent any of it getting between the stock and barrel, or into the lock through the tumbler axle hole; immediately afterwards put the ramrod (with the wiper threaded on) into the barrel, and sponge or rub it carefully up and down to remove the dirt or fouling, forcing the water through the nipple to clear the touchhole. Repeat this process until the barrel is quite clean.

9. Wipe the barrel well out, with rag or tow, until it is perfectly dry, and afterwards with an oiled rag; then put the muzzle-stopper in the barrel, and the snap-cap on the nipple. Care should be taken to keep the snap-cap dry when washing out the barrel, and to wipe the mouth of the hammer before letting it down on the snap-cap.

10. Every morning, and on every occasion before using the rifle, wipe the barrel out perfectly clean and dry.

11. The fouling which settles on the stock near the nipple-lump when firing should, if possible, be removed without using water or a damp rag. On no account is a knife or sharp instrument of any description to be used to remove the dirt near the nipple-lump or trigger-plate.

12. By the foregoing method of cleaning, the liability of the barrel to become rusty will be very much reduced, and the frequent necessity for removing it from the stock, which is always objectionable, be obviated.

13. In order to prevent water soaking into the stock, and at the same time give it a smooth and polished appearance, rub it over well with oil, and apply a little beeswax between it and the barrel and between the lock-plate and stock, to prevent water getting under the barrel or into the stock.

That's the way I do it in the field, an essential piece of gear for your rifle-musket is a good musket wrench that fits your cone and the fasteners (s crews) that hold everything together; a wiper that's threaded to fit your ramrod, and a supply of small patches. A spare cone threaded to fit your musket is a wonderful (and period) thing to have, too. All these ride in the implement pouch of your cartridge box -- that's what it's there for. (Got an Enfield box and there ain't no implement pouch? Well, the Enfield uses this wonderful little Y-shaped multi-functional tool that goes in one of the private's pockets, so they didn't put an implement pouch on their cartridge boxes.) If you've got water available, and even better, a fire and a tin can or dipper to warm it in, you can clean your weapon just about anywhere you have a chance.

To ward off the rust monster in the field, especially with those armory-bright Springfield products and all their clones, I swear by Bore Butter (TM). A little pistol cap tin with a glob of this stuff and a small patch soaked in the stuff is usually somewhere around my pockets. Once the weapon is clean, wipe down all exposed metal parts with your little Bore-Buttered patch (also works wonders for the last "oiled" swipe down the bore), and you're ready to defy Mother Nature and all her damps.

For cleaning and long- to mid-term storage once we're back in quarters after a weekend event (or any other), it's time for a more thorough cleaning. This is where the rigid range rod (Track of the Wolf sells a very nice 44" rigid rod that works wonders on the 3-bander weapons, including the long ol' M1842... if you're a 2-bander fetishist, the regular 34" rod is good to have) and the button-style cleaning jags come in.

Folks on the thread have mentioned that mixing regular oil-based bore cleaning solvents with black powder residue is bad juju. They're derned close to right; save the CLP, Break-Free(TM) or Rusty Duck(TM) for your modern guns. For black powder weapons, I've found that a "moose milk" solution often used as a patch lubricant for live fire works very well as a bore cleaner too, in combination with the hot-water scrubdown mentioned above. The stuff I use was formulated by one of the moderators over at The Muzzle-Loading Forums:


Stumpkiller’s Moose Milk
(black powder patch lube and bore cleaner/lubricant)

ingredients:
• Isopropyl Alcohol (91%): 8 oz.
• Castor Oil: 3 oz.
• Murphy’s Oil Soap: 1 oz.
• Witch Hazel: 4 oz.
•Water (non-chlorinated): 16 oz.

Add in the above order and shake well to mix as added, and again before every use or transfer. Oil and water don’t mix, dontcha know. Castor is alcohol soluable, but not in water. And yes, the witch hazel does seem to make a difference in how well it smears and coats the bore.

For patches, I dip cotton strips twice, allowing them to dry flat, for “dry patching” (it’s still oily, but not messy). Works great as a wet lube and powder solvent, too.

For absolute target or hunting I either wipe between shots with a spit patch if using a ball block or else add a drop of fresh milk to the patch and smear it between my thumb and index finger if cutting at the muzzle.


And if'n you can't find Bore Butter in your little urbanized community, here's a homemade substitute:


Stumpkiller’s Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range. SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

• Beeswax: 2 oz.
• Castor Oil 8 oz.
• Murphy’s Oil Soap 1 oz.

Heat beeswax in a soup can set in a pot of water. (A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy’s oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won’t mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won’t drip into the container when you pour it out).

FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy’s Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn’t seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn’t ooze out before it cools.

While your bore needs to be clean, so as to not harbor any lingering sparks as you add a fresh charge, it doesn't need to be sparkly scraped-down-to-the-nekkid-metal -command-sergeant-major's-inspection-clean, either. Most muzzle loaders do do a lot of live fire note that the barrel "seasons," much like a cast iron frying pan, with regular use. "Clean" in our case means no remaining carbon or powder residue remaining in the bore, there may still be some light gray or brown staining of a tightly-fitted patch from the lubricant on the side of the bore.

Hope this helped...

Tom

[Frenchie]

I've been hanging around guys who burn more black powder in a weekend than some of us do in a season, while sending lead downrange at teeny little bull's eyes. They treat their bores with a wide variety of gunks (everyone has their favorite receipt). They know their guns, they know what works, and they tell me there's no such thing as getting a perfectly clean patch out of any rifled barrel once it's had powder burned in it. Even a bore that looks immaculate under a bright light will produce some kind of deposit on a patch.

It's nothing to worry about. As has been pointed out, it was corrosive primer compound that caused so many bores to rust out. Black powder fouling is far less likely to do that and a properly cleaned and protected bore can be left in a dry place for weeks before cleaning with no harm done.

Here's two places you can talk to these guys:

CAS (Cowboy Action Shooting) City http://www.cascity.com/index2.shtml
Go to The Dark Side conference.

The Muzzleloading Forum:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/index.php

[Frenchie]

CAS (Cowboy Action Shooting) City http://www.cascity.com/index2.shtml
Go to The Dark Side conference.

Correction: It's called "The Darksider's Den". Come on over, we have cookies. ;)

[JustinPrince]

Thanks for all of the tips.

Last night I took it apart, and scrubbed it good with the bore brush and then ran patches with the cleaning rod, not the worm. I finally got it "clean", where it would only be dirty if I scubbed more with the brush. The rifling now appears good, strong, and sharp, and the bore itself seems a lot brighter. I'll copy down this thread and keep it for future reference.

On the topic of maintenence, I do have one more question... Is there anyway to tighten the leafs of the rear sight any? The 300 yard and 500 yard leafs seem a little too loose in the sight, and whenever the musket is vertical they tend to fall into the "up" position. I've noticed it when loading and practicing the various manuals of arms. I've tightened the side screw, but it still seems too loose. They hold fine when brought to the up position, but seem to be moving far too easily. The 300 yard will move all the way to the up position, while the 500 yard will only move to about a 45 degree position.

Another question... how tight - or loose - should the bayonet fit? The bayonet I have fits perfectly, and when secured with the locking ring stays put, but it does have a slight play in that it doesn't grip the barrel, almost like it is a little too big. Should it be snug with the barrel, or should there be a little "breathing room" as it is now?

Thanks!

[tompritchett]

Another question... how tight - or loose - should the bayonet fit? The bayonet I have fits perfectly, and when secured with the locking ring stays put, but it does have a slight play in that it doesn't grip the barrel, almost like it is a little too big. Should it be snug with the barrel, or should there be a little "breathing room" as it is now?

Back then they probably were very tight. Today, be thankful that you did not have to grind out the socket of the bayonette to widen it so that it would fit your rifle. I know it took me hours before I got mine to fit. That is why I now always advise newbies to either buy their bayonette and rifle at the same time or take their rifle with them when shopping for a bayonette.

Also, if you have not already done so, I would suggest that you purchase an extra cleanout screw. Don't tempt Murphy when you clean out the ignition chamber during a field cleaning. Also, if you decide to drill out your cone to reduce the number of misfire, might I suggest that you buy an extra one FIRST. Again, avoid tempting good old Cpt. Murphy.

[JustinPrince]

Back then they probably were very tight. Today, be thankful that you did not have to grind out the socket of the bayonette to widen it so that it would fit your rifle. I know it took me hours before I got mine to fit. That is why I now always advise newbies to either buy their bayonette and rifle at the same time or take their rifle with them when shopping for a bayonette.

Also, if you have not already done so, I would suggest that you purchase an extra cleanout screw. Don't tempt Murphy when you clean out the ignition chamber during a field cleaning. Also, if you decide to drill out your cone to reduce the number of misfire, might I suggest that you buy an extra one FIRST. Again, avoid tempting good old Cpt. Murphy.

Thanks for the advice! I'll admit I hadn't thought of buying an extra cleanout screw, but I know my luck with ol' Murphy. I did buy an extra cone, so I'll go ahead and buy an extra cleanout screw (or two.... God knows I've almost lost it once already.... in the house :D ).

[CivilWarBuff1863]

Don't forget to look at your touchhole carefully. I once had mine filled up with residue from firing until at the McDowell event in 2005 that I had problems with misfires. I couldn't figure it and neither did my file closer. When you take off your cone make sure that the touchhole is cleared of debris. I had to carefully use a drill bit to get the residue off of mine and now it fires perfectly. The touchhole is set at a 45° angle, it's not hard to miss.

Just be careful and have fun without a misfire.

[TheBaldYankee]

Even though I didn't start this thread, I want to thank everybody for the info contained, and the OP for bringing it up. I just purchased a '61 Springfield, and the info here will come in handy when it arrives.

[JustinPrince]

Here's another thing that might help that I found out. My hammer didn't seem to always strike square on, sometimes it would be to the right, sometimes to the left. I tried pushing it, and there was a bit of play in it moving it left or right from center. I tightened the exterior hammer screw, but to no avail.

On the inside of the lock there are three screws near the hammer, make sure they are tight. I checked mine, two were tight and one was extremely loose. I tightened it, and now the hammer strikes square on every time.

The hammer didn't seem to bad at first until I picked up the percussion caps I had used that day, and noticed a couple were badly deformed, the hammer having stuck well off center, to the point that when I brought the hammer back to half or full cap to place another cap after loading, the spent cap fell off instantly.

[tompritchett]

On the inside of the lock there are three screws near the hammer, make sure they are tight. I checked mine, two were tight and one was extremely loose. I tightened it, and now the hammer strikes square on every time.

I will have to check my Enfield for the same arrangement as my hammer on it has the same play. Thanks.

[Frenchie]

On the topic of maintenance, I do have one more question... Is there anyway to tighten the leafs of the rear sight any?

When my first Springfield's hausse (rear sight) did this, I tried squeezing the two "ears" together in a vise to tighten the grip. It worked for a while, then the short leaf started flopping back again. I'm on my third Springfield now and I just let it go. But you might try a little bit of blue (not red) LocTite(tm) the full length of the screw.

[CivilWarBuff1863]

Hope this helps you out somewhat!
http://www.regtqm.com/Images/muskets_images/schematic_1861%20Springfield%20Musket.jpg

[bob 125th nysvi]

the flash chamber is to us a paperclip instead of a drill bit.

Its rigid enough to poke out any debris, flexiable enough to adapt and a little less obvious that it isn't 1860s.

Bob Sandusky
Co C 125th NYSVI
Esperance, NY

[Sgt_Pepper]

Drill bits existed in the 1860s, paper clips didn't.

My apologies, but it had to be said. :D

[bob 125th nysvi]

Drill bits existed in the 1860s, paper clips didn't.

My apologies, but it had to be said. :D

and I own drills from that time period and the shiney chromian steels ones didn't. But that's what I always see in the field.

Besides access to drill bits would have been a little more limited than access to wire. Unlike today not every "garage" had one.

The flexibilty of the wire is also nice.

Bob Sandusky
Co C 125th NYSVI
Esperance, NY

[Frenchie]

What's wrong with the gummint issue hardened music wire nipple pick? Mine has always done the job. IMO, drill bits are a bad idea because it might break off in the hole and/or put metal shavings into the bore.

[bob 125th nysvi]

What's wrong with the gummint issue hardened music wire nipple pick? Mine has always done the job. IMO, drill bits are a bad idea because it might break off in the hole and/or put metal shavings into the bore.

I just found the paper clip because of the blunt end does a better job.

Only used it once (at home) after a drill session where I had 5 misifres in a row. Never had to pull is out in the field.

It's just part of a full kit of cleaning tools I carry hidden either in tins or under stuff in my pack.

I'm not the ordinance Sgt. but I find myself stripping parts off of a repairing a pards gun at least once at each reenactment.

Cause I got all the toys!

Bob Sandusky
Co C 125th NYSVI
Esperance, NY

[Charles Reynolds]

Just cleaned my 1861 Springfield for the first time, surprise Christmas gift. :O) Noticed some flash rust on the exterior of the barrel. What do I use to clean it off?

[toptimlrd]

Just cleaned my 1861 Springfield for the first time, surprise Christmas gift. :O) Noticed some flash rust on the exterior of the barrel. What do I use to clean it off?

Period answer: A little ash from the campfire on a damp rag or if you happen to have some rottenstone in your kit it works as well.

Modern answer: Neverdull, fine steel wool, or scotch bright followed with a light coat of oil should do the trick.

Springfields tend to rust if you look at them for more than a second.

[tompritchett]

Period answer: A little ash from the campfire on a damp rag or if you happen to have some rottenstone in your kit it works as well.

Modern answer: Neverdull, fine steel wool, or scotch bright followed with a light coat of oil should do the trick.

Springfields tend to rust if you look at them for more than a second.

Once I got all the rust of my rifles I adopted a practice of whenever I fire any of them, I always wipe them down afterwards with a rag soaked w/ a natural oil/beeswax mixture (used to be Kiwi Campdry but can't find it anymore). Also, if I know that it going to be extra foggy that night and I am in the field, I will dry them with a clean rag and then wipe them down again with the waxy rag. Even works with my Richmond.

[CivilWarBuff1863]

I just oil mine up whenever I think we have bad weather coming in. As for field cleaning after firing all day I use my brass brush to get the gunk out then pour water from my canteen down the barrel. Sometimes the water in your canteen is warm or hot depending if the sun hits it all day. I go through the steps of turning it end to end to get the dirty water out, repeat the step 3 times then run patches down until it's dry and clean. Last of all I put oil on the last patch and I'm finished.

[tompritchett]

I just oil mine up whenever I think we have bad weather coming in.

The only problem is that if there is sufficient moisture, the water will actually displace the oil, which will then float on top of the water. The mixture that I use is not displaced and I have actually seen beads of water on my Richmond in the morning and seen very little resulting rust or blackening. I just dry the water off the barrel and the weapon is ready to go. Also, as a point of reference, I was not referring to how I cleaned the inside of the barrel, just I took care of the outside.

[31stWisconsin]

This is how I polish my Springfield:

1. First I use ballistol and fine emery paper to remove the rust specks. This isn't period but I works quicker than step 2 right away because the ballistol quickly penetrates and loosens the rust. I have stopped using steel wool because it will leave steel wool scaps in the barrel and this causes rust as well.

2. I then taken rottenstone and mix it with olive oil. (Also called sweet oil) I then lather the metal in it, and take very fine emery paper and use elbow grease. This gives you the same effect as good old campfire ash, but much quicker.

The advantage to this it is period. The weapons manuel says to use flour of emery paper to polish the barrel, and olive oil and rottenstone are recommended for brass cleaning. I wish to avoid modern polishers because I feel it would give me and unperiod too mirror shiny appearence.

[Charles Reynolds]

Kiwi Camp Dry in the paste form is available at Amazon.com

[toptimlrd]

This is how I polish my Springfield:

1. First I use ballistol and fine emery paper to remove the rust specks. This isn't period but I works quicker than step 2 right away because the ballistol quickly penetrates and loosens the rust. I have stopped using steel wool because it will leave steel wool scaps in the barrel and this causes rust as well.

2. I then taken rottenstone and mix it with olive oil. (Also called sweet oil) I then lather the metal in it, and take very fine emery paper and use elbow grease. This gives you the same effect as good old campfire ash, but much quicker.

The advantage to this it is period. The weapons manuel says to use flour of emery paper to polish the barrel, and olive oil and rottenstone are recommended for brass cleaning. I wish to avoid modern polishers because I feel it would give me and unperiod too mirror shiny appearence.

In my post reccomending steel wool, I guess I should have stipulated for the outside of the barrel only.

[31stWisconsin]

Well that's what I mean, the exterior of the barrel. I guess I mistyped. When I mean "in the barrel" I mean the fibers get inbedded on the surface of the metal.

Also one thing I forgot to mention is that I use a brass brush and ballistol to remove rust from the interior of a barrel, and a nylon brush to remove powder resisdue from the interior of a barrel.