Civilian sack coats

[Pushingtheenvelope]

I picked up a civilian sack coat about a year ago and have yet worn it. The coats construction is very well done, entirely handsewn with quilted breasts. The only thing is that the coat has only one button. I have tried to do some research on this, mostly looking off original pictures, but my search has left me empty handed. Does anyone know if having a one button closure on a sack coat was a common practice during the later half of the 19th century? If so, I would really apperciate some reference photos. Thanks!

[Tiger_rifles]

Hello...... whoever you are?
I think the folks on here would also "really apperciate some reference photos"!
Could you post a couple pictures of you wearing the coat for us to see? Maybe then we could help you. Thanks!

[Spinster]

Paul,

That will be a bit difficult for Mike to do---he's a Junior Member.

Junior Members have limited permissions until they have a certain number of approved posts. We do this to keep spam advertisements off the board. As such he can't load images, use private messaging, set a signature line, or view or update profiles.

But, I'll take a stab at this question: I've not seen a period sack coat with just one button. I've seen images of them WORN with just one button closed, but not with just one button.

Now, a very short cut roundabout from earlier in the century, well maybe.

So, Mike, I'd be leery here---did you get this from a vendor that normally documents well, pick it up at a Civil War Yard Sale, or somewhere in between?

While most of them have been laughed off the field, one does still occassionaly see the old 'convert a modern suit coat' thing pop up on eBay. Those costumes on occassion do have one button.

[Pushingtheenvelope]

As I can not provide any photos, I will try to decribe the coat to the best of my ability. The coat is constructed with a two piece body, as well as a two piece sleeve. The collar is made with 4 pieces and is folded down. At the end of the collar fold there is a cloth covered button, as well as a handsewn button hole. I don't believe this is a converted Goodwill coat, since is constructed with quality wool and completely handsewn. I bought the coat used, so I don't know the maker. I am starting to think that whomever made the coat got tired after the first button hole and gave up, and the coat stayed uncompleted.
-Mike

[Spinster]

Look at the image in this thread

http://www.cwreenactors.com/forum/showthread.php?25345-Matching-suit-opinion


You'll note men with only one button buttoned, directly at the bottom of the lapels. It looks awkward to our modern eyes. But it's common to see in a period image. When the photo resolution is high enough, you can see there are other buttons or holes in most cases.

If that's the case, it's an easy problem to remedy.


Of course, I'm now laughing remembering a project coat a feller brought to me that just needed one button hole and the buttons...... And a hem and the lapels evened and there was something whonkus about the welt and.......but really, it's almost done and such a good price and could it be ready for him to wear it in the morning?

[Tiger_rifles]

Sorry Mrs. Larson, I did not know about the restrictions on new members. I meant no insult, only that to judge if a coat is correct or not is more easily done with a couple pictures than with the description "it has one button". Think I'm gonna go to bed now....Good night!

[Spinster]

Sorry Mrs. Larson, I did not know about the restrictions on new members. I meant no insult, only that to judge if a coat is correct or not is more easily done with a couple pictures than with the description "it has one button". Think I'm gonna go to bed now....Good night!

It's okay Paul----it took US awhile to figure out what the software allowed on that restricted status too :)

It's an annoyance for new users who need things like this, especially if they don't fill out all the profile fields at the get-go. They can't get back in to fix them. This streamlined the sign up process for us though-we let everybody in, but spammers can no longer use the private messaging system to send junk mail, and we bann them when they post---since we must approve and release every message for awhile.

Moderators see some mighty interesting stuff in our 'what's new' sort that users never see.

And now, back to our regular scheduled programming.....

[Pvt Schnapps]

Here's a pattern for a man's smoking or "negligee" jacket from 1868 that has just the one top button: http://patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AG1145M I'll defer to the experts on how common it was; myself, I have no idea.

[Pushingtheenvelope]

Very interesting Mr. Schaffner. The loose fit and one button closure would make sense that it was a lounging coat.

[Elaine Kessinger]

Mike- Look closer... there is a button at the waistline too... so it probably has the full compliment.

[Pvt Schnapps]

Mike- Look closer... there is a button at the waistline too... so it probably has the full compliment.

I have to apologize for not coming clean earlier, Elaine. I bought the pattern a few years ago but haven't got round to making it up yet. It only has the one button. If I made it for myself I'd probably add others, but that's all the pattern calls for. Check out page 23 here and zoom in: http://www.patternsoftime.com/2006catalog/2007_Chapter_G.pdf

There's some precedent for this in military garments. I've worn a zouave jacket that just had a hook and eye closure at the neck, and the southern edition of "Echoes of Glory", on p. 146, has a jacket from Lt. Duncan Holiday that just has one button at the neck.

[Spinster]

Period illustrations are always so......interesting

I can see the waist button in the shadows that Elaine sees, and the hole as well. I've seen more than one set of period instructions that bore little resemblance to the illustration, as well as the 'assumed knowledge' that comes in directions like 'turn heel, finish stocking'

So, we have a lounger and a zouave, but no one button sack as yet.

It could happen though. The 19th century up and bites us whenever we say never.

[Carolann Schmitt]

It could happen though. The 19th century up and bites us whenever we say never.

Yes, it does. :-) I own an original men's linen sack coat with a single button just below the lapels. There are no other buttons or buttonholes on the front of the coat. I've found a few images and fashion plates of similar coats with a single button closure. The information I have to date indicates this particular style was usually worn for casual or sporting activities, e.g. boating, picnics, walking, etc.

The coat I own is made with a single layer of fabric. The raw edges of the collar, lapels and outer edges of the coat are all double hemmed to the right side of the garment and top-stitched in place. The seams on the body of the coat are felled; the seams in the sleeves are unfinished. The button is shell.

Regards,
Carolann

[Spinster]

Hooray for Carolann!

So, Mike has a coat for casual wear. Suddenly I'm envisioning a period golf match. :)

Or croquet. Or a little boating on the lake......

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

It could happen though. The 19th century up and bites us whenever we say never.

Yes, it does. :-) I own an original men's linen sack coat with a single button just below the lapels. There are no other buttons or buttonholes on the front of the coat. I've found a few images and fashion plates of similar coats with a single button closure. The information I have to date indicates this particular style was usually worn for casual or sporting activities, e.g. boating, picnics, walking, etc.

The coat I own is made with a single layer of fabric. The raw edges of the collar, lapels and outer edges of the coat are all double hemmed to the right side of the garment and top-stitched in place. The seams on the body of the coat are felled; the seams in the sleeves are unfinished. The button is shell.

Regards,
Carolann
Very interesting - hemmed on the right side of the coat. Did it have any facings?

[Pushingtheenvelope]

I have been considering an ' authentic' fishing experience once this lousy winter passes on.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Very interesting - hemmed on the right side of the coat. Did it have any facings?

Ross -

No facings, single layer collar, patch pockets. The button and buttonhole are set within tab reinforcements. The tabs conceal the point where the hemmed edges switch from one side of the coat on the lapels to the opposite side of the coat on the body of the garment.

I suspect this garment may have been manufactured for the ready-to-wear market but I'm still searching for more information to prove that theory. it's a very neat garment.

Carolann