top stitching

[whipporrwhil]

I am adjusting an old sutler row shirt by replacing the buttons and do some topstitching. So my questions are:

1. What buttons are best?
2. What thread should I use?

Any thoughts, critisims etc are appreciated?

James

[hiplainsyank]

glass or bone buttons are the best to use.

100% cotton or linen thread should be used. While I recall some saying that it is not the most authentic, 100% cotton glace hand quilting thread can be found at fabric stores. Sometimes linen thread can be found at craft stores as well.

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

There are several factors involved in determining thread for shirt sewing. One of those factors is the weight of the material. You want to match your thread as closely to threads used in the material itself. If you're using thin cotton material, you'll want thin cotton thread and if a heavy weight cotton, a heavier thread should be used. This is due to the difference in shrinkage when washing. If you use the wrong thread, your shirt may bunch up at weird rates. Also, if using linen, try to use a matching linen thread and same rule for cotton material, try to use cotton thread. I've found through experience you get a completely different shrink rate also if you cross threads. I've had good experience with the Americana line of cotton quilting threads from JoAnn Fabric for the lighter stuff and HyMark button and topstitching thread for the heavier materials. As for buttons, you have less options if you're truly looking to replicate a period-produced piece. Do yourself a favor and look for the book "Thoughts on Mens Shirts" by William Brown. It is the go-to guide for period shirts, with lots of pictures of originals, patterns, and other guides to what makes them what they are. You'll find that the majority of buttons for these shirts of the CW period are white glass or china buttons. There are a variety of these, from plain to ornate like inkwell or calico buttons. Small mother of pearl and shell can also be found on period shirts. I've yet to find anything other than overshirts with bone buttons, as those were considered very low class and were usually reserved for drawers and other utilitarian garments. Not to say there aren't some shirts out there with bone buttons, just that the vast majority have glass buttons.

[hiplainsyank]

Ross-

Thanks for the update on buttons and the advice on matching thread fiber with cloth fiber.

[whipporrwhil]

Thanks for the great information