making Lace

[terry]

As all of you ladies who struggle to remain period correct know, crocheted collars are not period correct. Ladies wore lace or fabric collars. And their ballgowns were draped in lace. So I have decided to learn to make lace. I have the pillow and the bobbins. The thread is an easy acquisition. What I want to know is how do you secure the pillow while you are making the lace? I am thinking this is a task that I can take along to work on at our various encampments, but can not imagine doing this with the pillow sitting in my lap. So clue me in, please.

[hanktrent]

As all of you ladies who struggle to remain period correct know, crocheted collars are not period correct. Ladies wore lace or fabric collars.

Afraid I can't help with bobbin lace, but I'm curious about the first part. I thought crocheted collars were just one more type of collar that was worn. Admittedly, the patterns below from the pre-1860 period might be too wide for a good 1860s look, but were there no narrower crocheted collars when the narrow style came in?

Crocheted collars. (http://books.google.com/books?id=CTIEAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA1&output=html)

Godey's pattern for a crocheted collar. (http://books.google.com/books?id=R8dMAAAAMAAJ&pg=RA2-PA453&dq=crocheted+collar+date:0-1865&ei=nxBJS-iOA4-cMoO78YAO&output=html&cd=5)

Crocheted collars at a Sanitary fair. (http://books.google.com/books?id=NZwt_AkjDdQC&pg=PA73&dq=crochet+collar+date:1861-1865&ei=lxFJS9nVLYjENYf3pJEO&output=html&cd=1)

A big old honkin' shawl-weight crocheted collar probably isn't going to do it, but why would a finely-made crocheted collar from a period pattern not be period correct?

Hank Trent
hanktrent@gmail.com

[Spinster]

Actually, holding your pillow in your lap is one of your options, as is a slanted stand, a slant top or flat top table.

You'll also need a method to secure your bobbins while moving, something that can be accomplished with a wide band of cotton elastic. You'll also want to keep a good piece of clean white cotton sheeting to cover your work even when you step away momentarily.

Problematic in this plan to work at events is an aspect that won't show up until you have a lot of time in your work. There is a lot of dust in the air at events-horses kick it up, men marching by, gunpowder residue in the air. These particles settle on your work, and get bound in between your threads every time you twist two bobbins. After awhile, your white thread takes on a decided beige/brown/gray cast. This will not wash out. Not so much of a problem if you are doing color work, but that's not really appropriate for your purpose.

For more information on this skill and it's historical aspects, contact the International Society of Old Lacers

[ElizabethClark]

Big fat "string" crochet collars are not appropriate to mid-century, but a collar crocheted in lace-weight threads (which can be finer than sewing thread!) can be very appropriate. They take awhile to make, and require careful blocking, as they are very similar to true lace, but they can indeed be made.

One problem with taking delicate lace work out to events has been noted (grime); this is one of the big things that makes lace work an at-home or indoor-demonstration item. Another is that, given the scenario of a battle, sitting down to make lace is one of the less-pressing things on a person's mind. :)

Accurate, fine cotton laces can be purchased and made into collars, so making your own isn't required. If you take a look at imported English and French laces in white, you'll find a lot of great options.

Dancing dresses needn't be swathed in lace, either; there are hundreds of very appropriate fabric embellishments that can be used to very good effect.

[MrsArmstrong]

Her collar looks to be crocheted.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Civil-War-Woman-in-Checkered-Dress-Aurora-IN-Scott-R18_W0QQitemZ390140596713QQcmdZViewItemQQptZArt_Ph oto_Images?hash=item5ad63111e9

You can find directions for knitted lace collars

http://books.google.com/books?id=LA9BAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA3&dq=%22lace+collar%22+knit+OR+knitted+OR+knitting&lr=&as_drrb_is=b&as_minm_is=0&as_miny_is=&as_maxm_is=0&as_maxy_is=1865&as_brr=0&cd=1#v=onepage&q=%22lace%20collar%22%20knit%20OR%20knitted%20OR%2 0knitting&f=false

Crochet collars

http://books.google.com/books?as_q=&num=100&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=crochet+collars&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_brr=0&as_pt=ALLTYPES&lr=&as_vt=&as_auth=&as_pub=&as_sub=&as_drrb_is=b&as_minm_is=0&as_miny_is=1850&as_maxm_is=0&as_maxy_is=1865&as_isbn=&as_issn=

Cardonnet Crochet Cotton Thread comes in fine weights, look for sizes 40-100.
http://store.knitting-warehouse.com/crochet-thread-dmc-cordonnet-cotton.html