Lightweight wool? What kind??

[MMurphy]

Okay I've been looking over some of the different variations of wool trousers that we can get and I've noticed that there is an amazing amount of difference between the "thickness" / weight of the wools used.
I have one pair of trousers that the wool is so thick, I only use them for COLD Weather. They are heavy and they make my legs sweat in anything over 45 degrees.

However I have noticed recently a lot sutlers selling trousers made with a "Lighterweight" wool. It's just as good quality, and durable, and I've read a few accounts on where different styles of wool were used on uniforms.

But I can't seem to find the following:
A: The information on the wool...what's it called and what's it's weight?
B: Does anyone sell it? and if so, how much?

So I am making the "help me out here" call...if you have any ideas on this, pelase let me know...and thank you in advance.

[Guy Gane III]

Hi, Michael!

I applaud your recognizing the "weights" of wool that make up various uniforms. It's the first step into a large, scary world. lol

I am not an expert, as some are, on this board and others, but here goes...

I am going to assume you are talking about the commercially available uniforms that you can get from many sutlers who deal in over-seas-made uniforms.

If so, you will come to examine that most of these "wools" are actually synthetic blends. If this is to be true of the "thick pants" that you mentioned, you could be wearing something that is partially made of incorrect materials. It retains the body heat, instead of breathing.

Now, if you are wearing kersey pants that are made from 100% wool, then disregard the above. The kersey is thicker and much more durable.

I refer you to the following websites, to help you get familiar with the neat stuff that is available.

http://www.bentart.com/

http://www.wwandcompany.com/

http://www.stonybrookcompany.com/

http://www.ejtmercantile.com/index.html

http://www.woodedhamlet.com/

Hope this helps!

Sincerely,

[Curt-Heinrich Schmidt]

Hallo!

Ah, as in another recent thread/flame war, we are at that pesky fork in the road where lads turn use their Mental Pictures of what "quality" is and how it works for them in terms of uniforms.

IMHO, if I read the question correctly, I think Herr Michael is asking about the "quality" of uniforms that are visually close enough to be used, inexpensive, long lasting, and also match our modern notions of clothing feel and comfort...

Rather than "quality" of uniforms in terms of striving for Period raw materials, Period forms and patterns, and Period methods of construction.

IMHO still, if one is looking for "alternatives" to more historically accurate clothing, such as finding say trousers made of lightweight wool broadcloth rather than say even the Period correct 2/2 twill weave 14-16 ounce (per yard) wool kersey- the best strategy is to hit the Sutler Row areas at (so-called Mainstream or less) events where one can find the wide range or reproduction uniforms appealing to the needs and wants of of a more (so-called) History-Light customer base.
In that way one can peruse and sample different concepts of History-Light "quality" and match up what one is looking for in terms of being "lightweight," "unscratchy," etc. (Although, NUG as the nylon blend goes up, the "hotter" and less "breathable" fabric can become.)

But, in the end, often times once a lad's Mental Picture does not include an awareness of the fit and feel of Period clothes, it can be hard to "wear wool" of any kind and expect it to match the fit and feel of modern day clothing.
And that is complicated by vendors offering garments that historically should be made of 14 or 21 ounce woolens but instead that are made of 18 or 24 ounce nylon/wool blends. (Think a blanket weight wool instead of a shirt weight wool...)

Again, if one has has a History-Light vision one needs or wants, the best way to find items meeting that concept is to be able to "shop" and pick up and "feel" the goods to see if they match the vision.
What I or the next lad might think of as "lightweight" or "quality," or what vendors may advertise as "lightweight" or "quality," like

Others' mileage, may vary...

CHS

(Trying to recall a vendor who advertises/advertizes that he offers poor or low quality wares... ;) :) )

(Plus, there are wools and then there are woolens. For example, there is wool broadcloth, flannel, kersey, jean, satinette, cassimere, etc.)






that COLOR
WEAVE
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CONTENT

[hiplainsyank]

Sir-

If you are reenacting as a Confederate, you should consider a pair of trousers made from jeans cloth, which is a wool-cotton blend. It is a more breathable than most kersey wools, wears well, was extremely common among CS troops, and you can get an excellent pair of basic trousers from Ben Tart for about $100. A few bucks more than some places, but great fabric to have in any case. If that doesn't tickle your fancy you could track down a trouser pattern and make a pair from denim or corduroy, both fabrics of which were around in the Civil War and used for trousers.

[unclefrank]

You should check out the offerings of Dan Wambaugh. You can have uniform items made in a wide selection of accurate materials of different weights. He just made a pair of trousers for me that are a very lightweight sky blue jean that would seem to be excellent for summer use. On the downside, they would not be as durable as my Daley English Kersey Trousers, that would be great to wear to the South Pole.

[plankmaker]

I am currently collecting blue woolen rags in an effort to be the shoddy czar.

Mark Campbell
Piney Flats, TN

[PMB1861]

Mark,

I got a USPS flat rate box of fabric and thread cuttings for you then.