View Full Version : Question on Frock Coat sizes
3rd_PA_Artillery
06-09-2009, 11:50 AM
I've been watching this nice looking federal infantry frock on Ebay for the past day or so. The seller says it's a size 40. Before I buy this thing, I want to make sure it would fit me. You must forgive me, I'm not very familiar with the 38, 40, 42 sizes yet. In relation to modern adult shirt/jacket sizes, how big would this thing be? An L? XL? XXL?
DamYankee25
06-09-2009, 11:57 AM
Your best bet is to take a measuring tape and measure around your chest or go into a Pennys, Dillards any department store really and asked them to measure your chest size.
3rd_PA_Artillery
06-09-2009, 12:03 PM
Your best bet is to take a measuring tape and measure around your chest or go into a Pennys, Dillards any department store really and asked them to measure your chest size.
So is it like a 36 is 36 in. around, a 40 is 40 around?
ILYankee5
06-09-2009, 12:28 PM
Private Message Sent. I hope it helps out.
Ephraim_Zook
06-09-2009, 12:39 PM
Pretty much so. Chest measurement is coat size. Now, a couple of caveats:
1) Sizes vary from maker to maker. I'm sure you discovered this in buying clothes from several different stores. 36 x 30 pants from one place may be the right length, but from another store, too short or too long.
2) Frock coats are supposed to fit tight across the chest -- they were the dress coats and should look sharp. Sack coats can fit like sacks.
I looked on ebay at the coat I think you are considering. In the description is says "8 brass federal eagle buttons on the front" etc. A frock coat has NINE buttons on the front so there's already a very obvious departure from authenticity, along with the inside breast pocket. If you must get this coat, and I strongly advise you to walk away from the sale and continue looking elsewhere, then make sure that the seller will agree to take it back if it doesn't fit.
One other thing: Since you've chosen an artillery impression an infantry frock wouldn't be appropriate unless you are also considering doing infantry.
Good luck, young soldier. Keep asking good questions on the forum and hopefully you'll get useful answers.
regards
Ross L. Lamoreaux
06-09-2009, 12:47 PM
http://americanapparel.net/sizing/default.asp?chart=mu.shirts Here is a link to a conversion chart for waist and chest size to S, M, L, etc., etc. Bear in mind that not all makers work exactly the same, so your results can and will vary, sometimes greatly. Most modern tailors work with this chart as an understanding, but converting period patterns take alot of effort to make this chart work.
3rd_PA_Artillery
06-09-2009, 01:47 PM
Pretty much so. Chest measurement is coat size. Now, a couple of caveats:
1) Sizes vary from maker to maker. I'm sure you discovered this in buying clothes from several different stores. 36 x 30 pants from one place may be the right length, but from another store, too short or too long.
2) Frock coats are supposed to fit tight across the chest -- they were the dress coats and should look sharp. Sack coats can fit like sacks.
I looked on ebay at the coat I think you are considering. In the description is says "8 brass federal eagle buttons on the front" etc. A frock coat has NINE buttons on the front so there's already a very obvious departure from authenticity, along with the inside breast pocket. If you must get this coat, and I strongly advise you to walk away from the sale and continue looking elsewhere, then make sure that the seller will agree to take it back if it doesn't fit.
One other thing: Since you've chosen an artillery impression an infantry frock wouldn't be appropriate unless you are also considering doing infantry.
Good luck, young soldier. Keep asking good questions on the forum and hopefully you'll get useful answers.
regards
Thanks for the help, sir. Though it is a bit unauthentic, I'll attempt to make adjustments to it. I know an excellent seamstress who will be able to fix it up. And yes, I'm joining a second unit next year, 147th PA Co. G so I can be a little more active in the hobby. Again thank you for the advice.
Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
06-09-2009, 02:58 PM
Hallo!
As shared, sizes and sizing can be a relative term.
Even among the "premium" makers, one vendor's size may be a size under or over another.
Another problem with sizes is whether the make offers a true "Size X" garment OR that it is intended to fit a X inch chest. The two are not always the same even though the number is.
I have given up on size and sizing anymore as being almost meaningless unless on knows the maker. So, I prefer to buy "off the rack" where I can try things on for fit not size.
I have a 42.5 tape measured chest. Yet, some maker's "Size 42" are way too snug. Some fit as fitted. And some are closer to Size 44 or even Size 46.
And lastly, if the maker is working from Period patterns or drafted from Period garments the fit and feel of a Period size may not "feel" or "fit" like a Modern garment of the same "size."
CHS
hiplainsyank
06-12-2009, 07:17 AM
2) Frock coats are supposed to fit tight across the chest -- they were the dress coats and should look sharp. Sack coats can fit like sacks.
Actually there was also the period style called the pigeon breasted look, that was in for men. Many frocks would have been manufactured in this style, to make a man's chest stick out (think some of McClellan's pictures).
While others can give more details about this style, I do know that it existed and was used in the period.
flattop32355
06-12-2009, 07:35 AM
Actually there was also the period style called the pigeon breasted look, that was in for men. Many frocks would have been manufactured in this style, to make a man's chest stick out (think some of McClellan's pictures).
While others can give more details about this style, I do know that it existed and was used in the period.
To reinforce:
It is due to extra padding in the chest area of the coat. This was a style of the time, though not universal.
It makes it nice in cool weather, but adds to the heat level in warm weather.
skamikaze
06-12-2009, 05:14 PM
If you look at original frocks, they are not cut in a straight line down the buttons, but tend to be cut in a crescent shape to give that barrel chested look. they should also taper a bit at the waistline. Many repros today look like a rectangle with sleeves.
Curt-Heinrich Schmidt
06-12-2009, 05:26 PM
Hallo!
"Many repros today look like a rectangle with sleeves."
IMHO...
Because, our body morphology and fitting concept(s) are different which from the CW era.
Because original pattern concepts were not used in the greatly simplified-to-save-cost-and-ensure-profit versions many vendors sell.
Because many modern customers are not educated customers and informed consumers and do not know and/or do not care.
And because many modern lads are not willing to spend say $400-500-600-700 plus for a truely correctly made dress coat.
Others' mileage will vary...
CHS
Artyman
06-14-2009, 11:05 AM
My problem is that my diet is still working. I buy a tight chested frock only to have it become too loose a couple of months later. I started with a 46, then a 42, now a 40. I figure the 40 is where it will stop....I doubt I'll ever get into a 38 like I wore in high school.
To you 3rd PA Arty I suggest that generally a 38 is mens size small, 42 medium, 46 large, 48 extra large, 50+ too fat to march :grin:. Sounds like from your last post that you won the auction already. Cool, whether it fits or not. New guys need loaners and won't know about that 8 button thing unless someone gigs him on it!
eBay stuff is always a "grab bag" so buyer beware.
Harry
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