Questions about women's clothing

[Pvt Schnapps]

I generally find myself answering rather than asking questions in this forum, but I've wandered into an area of study that has left me baffled. Any assistance on the following questions would be most gratefully received:

1. I can easily find information on what a woman would wear on a formal occasion, but not so much on others. What, for example, would a young middle-class woman wear for a ride in the country or, say, to a picnic? What would a middle-aged woman of the same class wear?

2. Crinolines seemed very popular but were they worn by all classes on all occasions? Could we attribute some of the full-skirted look of the time to the amount of fabric in dresses and multiple petticoats?

3. Would a maid in a middle class home have worn crinolines?

4. What would Clara Barton have worn to work in a hospital?

5. Or a lady copyist in an office?

6. Most books on fashion seem to be about just that – fashion. Could you name a few references for everyday wear?

Thanks very much in advance.

[sbl]

I can quickly suggest Winslow Homer's newspaper etchings that appeared in Harpers. There are books of these and sources on-line. Homers showed working women in the arsenal and hospitals. He made all of them pretty but the clothing would be close.

Son of the South is a good place to start...

http://www.sonofthesouth.net/Winslow_Homer_Civil_War.htm

Adalbert Johann Volck's etching also show "regular" women.

[Carolann Schmitt]

Answers to each of these questions can be quite lengthy. Some general information to use as a starting point for further research on your part:

1. I can easily find information on what a woman would wear on a formal occasion, but not so much on others. What, for example, would a young middle-class woman wear for a ride in the country or, say, to a picnic? What would a middle-aged woman of the same class wear?

The most common garment for all classes and ages is a one piece dress with a high neckline (base of the throat) and long sleeves. Young ladies and children may also wear short sleeves. There are innumerable variations in style within this general description.

2. Crinolines seemed very popular but were they worn by all classes on all occasions? Could we attribute some of the full-skirted look of the time to the amount of fabric in dresses and multiple petticoats?

Crinolines were not just fashionable; they were functional. They eliminated multiple layers of petticoats, reducing them in number from 4-6 to 2 or 3 (less laundry). They also made it easier to move about. Skirt supports came in a variety of shapes and sizes - none of which resemble the top of a pyramid or could sleep the equivalent of a 3-man dome tent - and were very affordable. While there were some exceptions, they were worn by all classes in almost any situation.

3. Would a maid in a middle class home have worn crinolines?

Quite likely.

4. What would Clara Barton have worn to work in a hospital?

A serviceable wool dress, apron, appropriate undergarments including a modest skirt support.

5. Or a lady copyist in an office?

As above, with or without the apron, with the addition of oversleeves.

6. Most books on fashion seem to be about just that – fashion. Could you name a few references for everyday wear?

"Fashion" is not just high fashion; it is the prevailing dress of the period. My book list is 35 pages long. Contact me off list if you'd like a copy. Other sources include photographs - both portraits and actual scenes, paintings and drawings, and, especially, original garments or photos of original garments.

Regards,

[Pvt Schnapps]

Answers to each of these questions can be quite lengthy. Some general information to use as a starting point for further research on your part:

1. I can easily find information on what a woman would wear on a formal occasion, but not so much on others. What, for example, would a young middle-class woman wear for a ride in the country or, say, to a picnic? What would a middle-aged woman of the same class wear?

The most common garment for all classes and ages is a one piece dress with a high neckline (base of the throat) and long sleeves. Young ladies and children may also wear short sleeves. There are innumerable variations in style within this general description.

2. Crinolines seemed very popular but were they worn by all classes on all occasions? Could we attribute some of the full-skirted look of the time to the amount of fabric in dresses and multiple petticoats?

Crinolines were not just fashionable; they were functional. They eliminated multiple layers of petticoats, reducing them in number from 4-6 to 2 or 3 (less laundry). They also made it easier to move about. Skirt supports came in a variety of shapes and sizes - none of which resemble the top of a pyramid or could sleep the equivalent of a 3-man dome tent - and were very affordable. While there were some exceptions, they were worn by all classes in almost any situation.

3. Would a maid in a middle class home have worn crinolines?

Quite likely.

4. What would Clara Barton have worn to work in a hospital?

A serviceable wool dress, apron, appropriate undergarments including a modest skirt support.

5. Or a lady copyist in an office?

As above, with or without the apron, with the addition of oversleeves.

6. Most books on fashion seem to be about just that – fashion. Could you name a few references for everyday wear?

"Fashion" is not just high fashion; it is the prevailing dress of the period. My book list is 35 pages long. Contact me off list if you'd like a copy. Other sources include photographs - both portraits and actual scenes, paintings and drawings, and, especially, original garments or photos of original garments.

Regards,

Thank you very much! You will hear from me.

[ElizabethClark]

Dittos with Carolann.

One of the best things you can do is look at as many period photographs as possible. You'll see the wide range of everyday clothing, from fashionable to very utilitarian. Photography History books are good for this, as are on-line searches.