Cotton Shirting...

[TobiasJones]

Hello all,

As a hobbyist who makes his own goods whenever possible, I am reaching out to those many members of this forum who do the same: Where do you get your shirting fabrics?

As far as Cotton Shirting goes:

I know that Charlie Childs makes some shirting. However, of the 5 types represented on his website, 2 of them are always out of stock and 2 are basically the same.

I know that Orchard Hil Sutlery carries shirting fabrics for sale, but they are not currently taking orders.

Homespun Wares also carries some shirting from FHW, but the latest update on the website says they are no longer taking orders until further notice.

Outside of these three particular Civil War sources, every once and a while, I can find some decent quality shirting at JoAnn's Fabric in the Homespun section. However, most of the time they have the standard assortment of simple thin weave checks in blue, green and red.

Does anybody else have a quality "Best Kept Secret" company who has quality fabrics that they turn to for a quality look?

I appreciate any help you could send my way.

Evan O'Dell
The "I'm Bored and It's Winter Project Time" Mess

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

How can we keep a best kept secret if we tell you? Seriously, it can take some shopping around for sure to find quality sources. JoAnn Fabric is one, but you have to do your homework to make sure the colors and weaves are correct, but every now and then a diamond can be gleaned from the coal fields. Reproduction Fabric is another great source online (www.reproductionfabrics.com), 96 District Storehouse is another (www.96storehouse.com), and Wambaugh, White, and Co. many times have quality FHW or others shirtings (www.wwandcompany.com).

[Drygoods]

are you looking for plaid woven, period printed, or straight solid cloth shirting?

[Laura K]

http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-shirting-fabric.aspx?Source=LeftNav


Here are some that are particularly nice for a "rough" soldier look.

http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-shirting-fabric-yarn-dyed-homespun-plaid-fabric.aspx


Here are some that are a little more refined, but still have a nice soldierly feel to them.

http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-shirting-fabric-benartex-brushed-cotton-medley.aspx and http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-shirting-fabric-yarn-dyed-shirting-fabric.aspx


Here are some that are a little more refined. Put a white pleated bib front, collar and cuffs on a pink or blue pastel, and you have a very period gentleman's shirt.

http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-shirting-fabric-moda-bella-broadcloth-fabric.aspx

[TobiasJones]

are you looking for plaid woven, period printed, or straight solid cloth shirting?

Quite honestly, period shirting materials in general is my goal. In my mind, that generally meant plaid wovens, but I am certainly open to any period materials.

Thanks for the links, Laura K.

Evan O'Dell

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

Quite honestly, period shirting materials in general is my goal. In my mind, that generally meant plaid wovens, but I am certainly open to any period materials.

Thanks for the links, Laura K.

Evan O'Dell
Please don't limit yourself to plaid wovens when it comes to shirting. The CW period had so much more in the choice of materials, prints, and colors than what you see at a reenactment today. Do yourself a favor and find a copy of the books "Dating Fabrics - A Color Guide 1800-1960", and "Thoughts on Mens Shirts" by William Brown. You'll be amazed at the different colors and prints that were available, and not just the same old Wal Mart plaids we see today. There were cottons, flannels, linens, linsey woolsey (linen/wool mix), and even wool jeans used to construct shirting, all depending upon social standing, income, occupation, and availability of materials. Flannels are very underrepresented by reenactors of today, mostly due to the fact that they are considered "hot", but with a little experimentation, you'll find them just as comfortable as it actually cools you down when the breeze catches the material. When its 85 degrees, you're going to be hot whether you're wearing thin cotton or wool flannel.

[TobiasJones]

Please don't limit yourself to plaid wovens when it comes to shirting. The CW period had so much more in the choice of materials, prints, and colors than what you see at a reenactment today. Do yourself a favor and find a copy of the books "Dating Fabrics - A Color Guide 1800-1960", and "Thoughts on Mens Shirts" by William Brown. You'll be amazed at the different colors and prints that were available, and not just the same old Wal Mart plaids we see today. There were cottons, flannels, linens, linsey woolsey (linen/wool mix), and even wool jeans used to construct shirting, all depending upon social standing, income, occupation, and availability of materials. Flannels are very underrepresented by reenactors of today, mostly due to the fact that they are considered "hot", but with a little experimentation, you'll find them just as comfortable as it actually cools you down when the breeze catches the material. When its 85 degrees, you're going to be hot whether you're wearing thin cotton or wool flannel.


Mr. Lamoreaux,

I appreciate this statement. This summer and pard and I had the opportunity to view some garments at the Museum of the Confederacy. One shirt I truly enjoyed viewing was a pink shirt with printed tiny "flowers" on it. The shirt had belonged to an officer (Lt. Edward Crozier).

I loved the shirt and material, but was afraid to represent a small minority rather than a majority by attempting to recreate it. Recreate, of course, really means what would be my vain attempt to similarly sew a period shirt, as this shirt is far beyond my present abilities with the mass of gathering it requires. However, the shirt sure was nice.

Concerning flannels, what colors would you recommend as being most regularly represented?

Evan O'Dell

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

With flannels, you can't go wrong with red, blue, gray, brown, etc. Red has long been considered a "healthy" color, and I also think underrepresented in the hobby. From "The Huntington Globe", Nov. 28, 1860 (From a post on the AC Forum by Matthew Rector): "Red flannel shirts are to be recommended for both summer and warm in winter, absorb the perspiration, and permit its evaporation without chilling the wearer. The color is bright and agreeable, and it prevents a soiled appearance before the shirt is really dirty." Flannel, depending upon where you get it, can run the gamut from thick as a blanket to very lightweight, and I think you'll find it very tolerable, sometimes with a thin undershirt of cotton or linen. In the winter, with layers, you'll stay warmer, and like I said previously, in the summer it allows your skin to breath and cool on its own. A good source for this type flannel is www.fashionfabricsclub.com, as they have a good selection with decent prices and very good customer service.

[VaTrooper]

Joe Hofmann has some copies of "Thoughts on Mens Shirts." And he's a great guy to deal with.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Thoughts-on-Mens-Shirts-in-America-1750-1900_W0QQitemZ290276203012QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_No nfiction_Book?hash=item290276203012&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318

[Ross L. Lamoreaux]

Joe Hofmann has some copies of "Thoughts on Mens Shirts." And he's a great guy to deal with.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Thoughts-on-Mens-Shirts-in-America-1750-1900_W0QQitemZ290276203012QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_No nfiction_Book?hash=item290276203012&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318
Definitely get the book from him - great price and you'll get it quickly. It is a "must have" when it comes to period shirts

[Justin Runyon]

I know for a fact, and have seen with my own eyes, some awesome old run FHW shirting now in the posession of the Dirty Back Boys. Call 'em fast and tell them you want the stuff that Runyon bought two yards of each.

http://www.dirtybackboys.com/

[Carolann Schmitt]

Do yourself a favor and find a copy of the books "Dating Fabrics - A Color Guide 1800-1960", and "Thoughts on Mens Shirts" by William Brown.

In addition to these two great sources, I highly recommend Textile Designs by Susan Meller and Joost Elffers. (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc. 1991.) This book contains thousands of full color images of printed fabrics categorized by pattern style. Each fabric is dated, states whether it was used for apparel or home furnishings, and indicates if the image is full-scale, enlarged or reduced. It is now available in paperback (same print quality and image size as the hard back version) and can be obtained via inter-library loan. The information is eye-opening.

Regards,

[TobiasJones]

Thank you to you kind folks who had some information. I now have set out for myself a couple of shirts to make this winter. I am certainly looking forward to sewing something new (you can't ever have enough clothing/gear for this hobby).

Evan O'Dell