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Conferences General Discussion of Civilian Topics Topic #4688
Reading Topic #4688
StLouislady
Member since Dec-22-04
57 posts
Jun-23-05, 09:13 AM (EST)
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"Bathing costumes"
 
   LAST EDITED ON Jun-23-05 AT 09:15 AM (EST)
 
Anna Allen (of Graceful Lady fame) and I are in the process of researching bathing costumes, for possible wear at a well-known Missouri event in early August. We've found some intriguing designs and examples, but are in need of a little bit of advice. First, have any of you ever tried making a lady's bifurcated garment? How did you develop the upper part of the pants? I don't know a polite way to ask this, so here goes -- is the crotch line very different from a man's trousers? I would imagine one wouldn't need a lot of shaping there, since the garment is supposed to be very loose and that part of it wouldn't show under the tunic or paletot.

Second, most of the designs show an oiled silk cap to be worn either over the hair or over a little shallow-brimmed straw hat. How would you create oiled silk? Is it similar to the linseed oil canvas people use for floor cloths? Does the oil just soak into the fabric eventually? Or is it some form of resin?

Lastly, for the footwear, I found a cute pattern for crocheted slippers, which seem to fit reasonably well when made of worsted wool. The original pattern (1864 Godey's) calls for a leather sole, lined with wool felt. I was wondering whether chamois wouldn't work better? I've seen lots of baby slipper patterns that called for chamois soles, but so far every adult slipper pattern I've found calls for leather or cork. I don't think that would work for a bathing costume. I assume they might have used cork, but I can't find that anywhere and doubt I could figure out how to sew my crocheted uppers to cork anyway, i.e., not without breaking them. The chamois might be a good solution because it's used for washing cars these days, so it must be able to withstand a wetting.

On the other hand, if there's a more period correct way to do it, I'd rather go that route. I've seen late 19th c bathing slippers, but never anything from our period, so I'm kind of groping in the dark here.

Thanks for any advice you might have!

Silvana R. Siddali


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Spinster
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488 posts
Jun-23-05, 03:56 PM (EST)
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6. "RE: Bathing shoes and bottoms"
In response to message #0
 
   If the cork listed below does not work out, look to your Local Yarn Store (not a big box craft store, but a real true knitting shop)--currently in fashion with the knitting world right now are felted wool ballet looking slippers made from Brown Sheep Company yarns.

Cute as can be, and easy to make--- and thus your LYS is likely also carrying the leather bottoms for the felted slippers, holes already punched and ready to sew on your cute CW period slippers.

And if your LYS doesn't have them--mine does, and I can bring you a pair to Charleston.

Mrs. Lawson
"Weaver, Spinster, Strong Fast Dyes"
Terre Lawson/Winston Free-State/First Confederate Legion


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Beau
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54 posts
Jun-23-05, 09:59 AM (EST)
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2. "Swimming in Bathing costumes"
In response to message #0
 
   * * * W A R N I N G * * *

Normally in August the Des Moines River between Croton and Athens is not very high.

However, there are sometimes very deep holes formed by the currents. It can look very shallow and mild and the next step one takes could be over a twenty five foot deep hole.

If you ladies are intending to take a dip in the river in bifurcated bathing costumes, take the necessary precautions for water safety.

Know how to swim in your costume.
Have a buddy to swim with you.
Perhaps have a rope or pole to pass over to a swimmer in trouble.
Know first aid for a drowning victim.

Watch out for big carp! No, that is a joke, the others are serious though.

Soldiers have been know to skinny dip out there too, so keep an open eye to the camps where they may jump in to cool off.

Your affectionate uncle, Beau


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StLouislady
Member since Dec-22-04
57 posts
Jun-23-05, 12:22 PM (EST)
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3. "RE: Swimming in Bathing costumes"
In response to message #2
 
   Oh, my, Uncle Beau. We'll be careful. Of the carps, at least.

Thanks to Mrs. Mescher for those excellent hints. That flooring sounds like just the ticket. I wonder whether some kind of acrylic or decoupage glaze might work on the silk? Would that be less flammable?

Silvana R. Siddali


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JaneGilmore
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201 posts
Jun-23-05, 01:56 PM (EST)
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5. "RE: Swimming in Bathing costumes"
In response to message #3
 
Oh <i>my</i> is right!

-Anna Allen

http://www.TheGracefulLady.com
Graceful apparel from times past.


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vmescher
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428 posts
Jun-23-05, 01:07 PM (EST)
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4. "RE: Swimming in Bathing costumes"
In response to message #3
 
   >I wonder whether some
>kind of acrylic or decoupage glaze might work on the silk?
>Would that be less flammable?

Decoupage glaze might make it too stiff or if not too stiff, the glaze would crack as the fabric was flexed. I've used the glaze on doll faces to simulate a varnished faces on dolls and it can get very stiff, depending on how many coats you use.

Someone mentioned that they had made oiled silk using linseed oil and Japan dryer but I don't know how well it worked.

Virginia Mescher
mmescher1@cox.net
Society for Women and the Civil War, President www.swcw.org
http://www.raggedsoldier.com
http://www.vintagevolumes.com


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vmescher
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428 posts
Jun-23-05, 09:47 AM (EST)
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1. "RE: Bathing costumes"
In response to message #0
 
  
>
>Second, most of the designs show an oiled silk cap to be
>worn either over the hair or over a little shallow-brimmed
>straw hat. How would you create oiled silk? Is it similar
>to the linseed oil canvas people use for floor cloths? Does
>the oil just soak into the fabric eventually? Or is it some
>form of resin?
Not ever having made a bathing costume, I can't advise from experience but I did find some information that you might be able to use.

Here are directions for making a bathing cap.

Workwoman's Guide by a Lady (1838) p.68
Bathing Cap:
These are made of oil-silk, and are worn, when
bathing, by ladies who have long hair. Cut a piece of
oil-silk, 4 nails long and 8 nails wide; double it so
as to make a square; let the doubled part be the back
of the cap, and slope off the corner at the top,
towards the back, in a curve, so as to shape it to the
form of the back of the head. Sew up along the top of
the bathing cap, binding it with tape at the seam,
both at the top and in the front. Lay on a tape
behind to form a hem, making oylet-holes at the ears,
and passing a string through each oylet-hole, which is
fastened down at the opposite side; these strings draw
up the cap, when worn, to the size required.

I also found some information on oiled silk.
From "Scissors and Yardstick" by C. M. Brown and C. I. Coats (1872): "Oil silk. A very thin, white silk, saturated with oil, and dried. This process renders it waterproof, and transparent. It is used for hat linings, etc. An imitation is make of cotton. Width, 30 to 40 inches."

From "Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods" by George Cole (1892): "Oiled Silk. Thin silk saturated with boiled oil, semi-transparent and waterproof. It is much used in tailoring and dressmaking to prevent perspiration from passing through, as at the armpits of garments and the linings of men's hats and ladies' bonnets."

One word of warning, if using linseed oil, I think it is highly flammable so you might be able to find a safer substitute.

>
>Lastly, for the footwear, I found a cute pattern for
>crocheted slippers, which seem to fit reasonably well when
>made of worsted wool. The original pattern (1864 Godey's)
>calls for a leather sole, lined with wool felt. I was
>wondering whether chamois wouldn't work better?

Chamois might stretch and would not be very sturdy. It would be similar to wearing a pair of socks.

I've seen >lots of baby slipper patterns that called for chamois soles, >but so far every adult slipper pattern I've found calls for
>leather or cork. I don't think that would work for a
>bathing costume. I assume they might have used cork, but I
>can't find that anywhere and doubt I could figure out how to
>sew my crocheted uppers to cork anyway, i.e., not without
>breaking them. The chamois might be a good solution because
>it's used for washing cars these days, so it must be able to
>withstand a wetting.

You could try using cork flooring squares or rolls of cork from art supply stores. Both are fairly pliable and should not be too expensive. The tiles would need to be made from acutal cork and not the chopped imitation cork. Not being a shoemaker, I don't know if that would work but it may be worth a try.

You would need to punch holes in the cork and attach the uppers through the holes.

Virginia Mescher
mmescher1@cox.net
Society for Women and the Civil War, President www.swcw.org
http://www.raggedsoldier.com
http://www.vintagevolumes.com


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